Yep - there's nothing wrong with MS - at least I don't think so. But - as Charlie says, there is a LOT to learn. If you think you know what makes an engine work, then try this for a dose of humility. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> I can make any carbureted engine with a distributor run great, but this is another ball game altogether. I assume I'll eventually understand it, but to do so requires far more awareness of the influence of one factor on another than I've ever considered. The flip side is that many of the carbureted engines I built long ago - and THOUGHT were about as good as it got - probably were never near their full potential.

The end result should be fine, providing I'm willing to dig into not only the engine parameters, but also the software files and make needed changes. As an example of that, I just opened the custom.ini file that controls auto-tune and found my software lockouts at minimum 1500 rpms and 60 Kpa. To use auto-tune at lower rpm and Kpa levels, I've now reduced the lockouts to 1200 rpms and 30 Kpa - just to see how it works.

I'm thinking there's a possibility that the oil leaks are from blowby on the new rings that aren't seated. I also found the PCV valve to be a little sticky from the prior head gasket blowing and putting oil in the intake. So, I'm going to get a new PCV valve in a few minutes and try driving the truck to see if I can seat the rings without doing any damage to the engine. The AFR and ignition timing settings are conservative, so I think I'll try it and see if it makes any difference in the oil leaks. I sure hope so, because one of the leaks appears to be from the rear main seal. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" /> That's hard to believe since I installed a sleeve on both ends of the crankshaft.... unless the 80+ psi initial oil pressure blew out the seal.... if so, I'd think the leak would be much bigger.

Frank