Frank,

Just curious, Did I read that you had replaced your water pump bolts with oversized ones due to stripped threads in the rear water pump housing? Maybe I'm just thinking of the other engine you built.

Sorry to hear of these current troubles. Its puzzling to me as to why a belt would mistrack like that.

[edit]re-read your post now I kinda understand what happened hoping its just the tesioner[end edit]

No, that was another engine that I replaced one water pump bolt - but that wouldn't cause this.

The reason it tracked to the rear is because the tensioner pulley is out of alignment with the belt angle. I'm not absolutely certain if the tensioner is bent or if it's the tensioner mounting boss on the oil pump. Since the bolt was straight and the bolt went through and threaded easily into the oil pump boss, I assume the holes and threads are in alignment - which likely means that the face of the oil pump case where the boss is cast... is bent.

The best and safest remedy is to install a new tensioner and oil pump.

It's a weird thing, but an example of how one negligent thing leads to another..... and how easy it is to miss something. I usually check things 2 or 3 times.... and pay attention to alignment of pulleys and such, but even after I saw the mess, I had to look from several angles to see that the pulley wasn't lined up exactly right - and it doesn't take much misalignment to lead a belt off course - particularly on a flat idler or a sprocket with no shoulder.

If I'd known this in advance, I probably would have pulled the engine since the mounts will now have to come off to remove the pan..... and of course, this is after I already removed the exhaust crossover, transmission stays and inspection plate to check the rear main seal - and then replaced everything - all of which now has to come off again. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />

There's a pony in here somewhere. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cyclops.gif" alt="" />

Frank

That sucks Frank. Hate to hear it's giving you fits. Let me know if I can help you any with parts <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Thanks, Larry -

I can chuckle about it, but I can't say I don't deserve it for not looking for that bolt.... but I'll be durned if I would have ever thought to look inside the cover that I installed without hearing anything drop. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> I'm just thankful I caught it now and not on the road somewhere far from home.

The main issue is all of the changes at one time..... I've got a lot of alligators to sort. The only way to do it is to just dig in and learn.

Think about it.... different block, crank, rods, pistons, cams, head gaskets, distributor, fuel pump, injectors, fuel rail, regulator, plugs, ECU... you name it..... something was bound to go wrong. No big deal - just more work and another opportunity to learn something I didn't know. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Frank

The tensioner was definitely damaged/bent - and has seen some heat since I reinstalled it after the first episode. It likely jammed, but never made any noise.



The oil pump may be ok, but I don't trust it, so it'll be replaced also. I have to consider the possibility that high oil pressure on startup might be a sign that the relief valve was damaged and the internal clearances may no longer be in spec..... better safe than sorry.

Frank

You might or might not know, but i thought i'd mention it..

A lot of the 3000GT guys are having AFTERMARKET oil pumps fail. I would suggest measuring the pump to see if its within spec, if it isnt (they usually are).. that sucks because mitsu is about to break it off in your butt... unless you nab up a good used one. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Thanks - I've read that the pump they're having problems with is the high-volume Toga pump. The one now in my truck is a nearly new OE from the dealer. However, it will soon be replaced with a Beck-Arnley pump I've ordered from Larry.

I've now pulled the heads and replaced the Nippon-Reinz Diamante SOHC MLS gaskets with OE Montero composition gaskets and torqued the ARP head studs to 95 ft-lbs with ARP moly grease.... equivalent to about 120 ft-lbs w/30W motor oil. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" /> If they don't seal now, there's something really wrong. I don't think my machine shop gets a finish that's smooth enough for MLS gaskets to properly seal.

Frank

Thanks to Larry, a few new parts showed up today <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />:


I think I like the Fel-Pro oil pan gasket..... the extra thickness makes the flex plate inspection cover a little difficult to install, but it's no big deal...... hopefully, it won't leak.

Oil pump is installed, engine bolted back on the mounts, oil pan, starter, exhaust and front crossmember are back in place, so the underside is done. Tomorrow, I'll put the topside back together and hope for the best.

Frank

Sounds good. I figured it was getting close to time for an up date.
I just had a tree fall on my AWD Mirage, more work to do now.