I've completed my conversations with the Magnacharger folks to a very reasonable conclusion. After sending pictures to one of their executives, he asked what I wanted. I explained I didn't want anything other than to be able to put the engine back together in a reasonable condition - as I would if it was damaged through my own negligence or error...... gaskets, seals, cylinder rehone, rings, bearings, valve seals, valve/valve seat redressing. I suggested I would provide labor and cover anything not specifically damaged by the blower bearing failure and would make every effort to salvage what I could - just as if I was paying for it out of my own pocket.

They said that while they have a disclaimer in all of their kits that specifically denies coverage caused by installation of their kits (and I can understand why), that in this case the difference was that the cause was nothing other than blower failure.

So, I was asked to send them a bill for parts and machine work needed to repair the engine. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> I know it's not every day that something like this happens - and I also know that when it does it's good to do business with honorable folks who make a great product and stand behind it so long as people aren't trying to take advantage of them. While there has been some understandable hesitation on their part, there was never any argument or denial of liability. They're a class act. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

Frank

Frank,

Thanks for all the info on the bottom end <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> The ARP headstud discovery is a major breakthrough. I will definately put that to use.

Good to hear that the folks at Magnacharger are taking care of you. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

Some days......... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" /> I ordered a set of Wiseco rings from Flatlander Racing - ordered 6, paid for 6.... After waiting a week, the package came today - so I prepared to grind ring end gaps, opened the package and found only 4 sets, one of which is wrong:



To top it off, there's something wrong with their stinkin' telephone, so I'm stuck trying to explain this via email and haven't received a response to that either. I'm afraid we've forgotten all about customer service in this day of the internet and such.

I'm gonna be really careful all day tomorrow since it'll be Friday 13th. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Frank

Maybe they have the same dyslexic orangutan pulling their orders as I have putting up my parts here at the store..... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />

Good luck with it Frank. And for Pete's sake, be careful today <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif" alt="" />

Fun, fun - lightning struck the PC over the weekend and blew the modem........ finally back up this afternoon.

Here's a pretty sight and maybe another first - ARP studs to fit 3.0L SOHC main bearing saddles - they're head studs for a '93 and earlier 2.0L 4G63. ARP packages a set as ARP# 207-4201:


Flats on the girdle were prepped with a file bridging 2 flats - stud length is good on a trial fit:



Except this one stud interferes with the oil pickup mounting leg and it must be ground shorter:


The lower part of the stud was ground until the overall length was 4.125" at which point the threads appeared to bottom - so, the top of the stud was also ground until the overall length was 4.00" - which loses most of the allen socket head, but just enough is left to turn the stud into the block, but not enough depth left to get any leverage to remove the stud - no problem, it can be removed after the girdle is off, but something to be aware of when installing this stud.

Next issue is to consider the forces at work on the main saddles - there is considerably more pressure exerted by these studs over the OE bolt torque spec..... I'm installing the studs at 80 lb-ft with ARP moly lubricant - that's a bunch of pressure and can distort the bore on some blocks. ARP recommends installing the studs at spec torque, then align honing the bore - something I'd like to avoid, so a bunch of checking has to be done to see if I can get by without the extra machine work.

First, I installed the main bearings and crankshaft without lubricant and checked the main clearances with Plastigage... I have .002" except for the rear and it's about .001-.0015", so that's ok, but doesn't tell me if the side-to-side dimension has been narrowed by pressure. Next, I removed the crankshaft, added 10W-30 oil to the bearing surfaces, retorqued the studs and spun the crank by hand to "feel" the clearance. The crank spun freely, so I removed it again, wiped off the 30W, added assembly lube, retorqued and "felt" it again - it still felt fine - so I'll risk not align honing the main bores.

Crankshaft end play is exactly .003":


So, all seems well in Studsville. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Frank

The pistons are back in:



I'll set the valve timing this weekend when I get back from Knoxville.

Frank

Looking good Frank <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

I was going to say that. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Frank,

I am still awed by your way of doing things!

You should be building F1 engines, man!

Respectfully,

Gerhard

Thanks, fellas -

Gerhard, I hope things are going well in SA - I miss the food and scenery! Bring me an F1 engine and let's see how long it takes me to break it. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> I appreciate your confidence, but I'm not even close to being in that league. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/baby.gif" alt="" />

Frank