I'm hoping the loss of power was the ignition system breaking down as the coil tower burnt on the distributor cap - the connector wasn't seated properly and burnt the corner off the tower from arcing. If so, I may have gotten lucky because when I looked down at the gauges when power faded, there was no oil pressure - yet there was plenty a mile or so before. Some of the pressure loss could have been from the engine slowing down on compression braking with no ignition.

No chance on the tight ring end gap idea. I set the top ring gap at .018", 2nd ring at .020" and all oil rails had a minimum of .010".... all individually fitted for each cylinder @ 1" down the bore and square.

I don't think anything ever seized..... even at the hottest temperature, the engine would still turn over, though not as fast as when cool. I attribute at least a part of that to the combination of ignition timing and a hot engine.

When the 3.0L engine is right - and with good lifters - there's absolutely no lifter tap. The newer lifters have a 3mm oil passage that seems to help. If yours are collapsing with good pressure, I'd suggest replacing them if the engine has good life left in it.

I thought about the tight gear end clearance when I packed the pump with the thicker assembly lube, but I figured if the cranksahft bearings can clear it, so would the oil pump.

I think (hope) the problem will be found in the oil pump. If the relief valve is open, there would seem to be too little oil flow..... which would transfer friction heat to the oil that did manage to circulate. I'm sure some damage has been done - I just hope not too much.

I'm tempted to pull the girdle for a look-see while I have the pan off, but that could open another can of worms. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />

Frank