I almost followed him in the same mistake.

When I picked up the parts, he mentioned that he had torqued the mains to 48 lb-ft, but it didn't set off alarm bells at the time, so when I installed the crankshaft, I torqued it to 50 lb-ft. Sometime over the next few hours, I started wondering and first checked the OE bolt torque and was reminded it was 55-61 lb-ft.

That seemed ok at first glance, since it roughly compares to 48 lb-ft with moly lube, but then I realized it couldn't be right because the benefit of the main studs is the ability to increase the clamp strength - so I checked the ARP website for recommended torque on a 12mm 190k psi tensile strength fastener and found the 86 lb-ft value. After I stopped shaking <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> I called the machinist and to his credit, he immediately asked me to bring it back.

I don't like the delay, but it may provide a chance to massage the girdle and bores for a tighter clearance. A loose engine will make more power, but I'd rather have the main clearance between .002-.0025" if possible.

Anybody can make a mistake, so I'm not too upset - I'll see later today what he's able to do with it.

Frank


'89 [color:"white"]G-Raider[color:"white"] [color:"black"]Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 172k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum