Charlie,

I messed with the line pressures and accumulators as well. What I found was that that shimming the 4 cyl regulator helped. Later on I realized that the V6 had a stiffer spring that I could have used.

I then combined the V6 spring with my shim. I'm pretty sure I went a bit to far and that just the V6 regulator spring would have been perfect for the 4 cyl turbo.

Next time I have the tranny apart....

I know that there is an electronic valve body for our tranny but I have never actually seen one or a service manual for it. I think it came in certain model Volvo's.

Kevin

If I recall I put stops in the accumulators to reduce their volume. Higher spring rate slows the clamping. Higher preload delays the shift. By shortening the travel makes a quicker shift.
Since these are a sequential shift transmission meaning each upshift just locks an element the timing is not critical so a soft spring and lower volume will firm up and quicken the shift. There are restrictor in each fluid passage to the accumulator, these get opened up a bit. I leave the check valve in.

The Toyota Cressida had an electronic trans at that time. I expect it would provide the valve body and such. I do not have hands on of that period Volvo autos.

On my first unit I put stops in to limit the accumulators and added extra clutches to the packs.

I was building the unit using the same methods I used on torqueflite when I was in high school. In retrospect, I think I solved a few problems that I didnt actually have.

The current V6 unit only has higher line pressure. That seems to hold very very well. I have been running it for about five years with no issues.

Kevin

Kevin -

I'm considering a change in throttle bodies to get away from the uni-polar Mitsu stepper IAC on which I converted the coil wiring from uni-polar to bi-polar. Sometimes it gets confused if I don't let the motor completely cycle and try to start too quickly (maybe it's me that gets confused - or impatient). MegaSquirt is set up for bi-polar GM stepper motors as a PNP (almost), but all of the GM throttle bodies I've seen have the cable crank on the wrong side.

Some Fords have the crank on the correct side for me - and that would allow me to change to the Ford PWM idle air supply that is also easy to use with MS..... but requires a change internally in the MS computer.

Here's one option:

IAC Body

I need to look into this at the yard for options.

Frank

Well, scratch that idea. I see that most of the Ford and Chrysler throttle bodies have the crank on the same side as the GMs. It's probably best to get another Mitsu one and modify it, since everything else is already in the correct location for my setup. I should be able to remove the stepper moter, block off the passage, then port air into it from a remote supply.

I just pulled a set of heads w/cams off of a '91 Montero and I see that the '91 throttle body is quite different from the '89.

Frank

A few years ago I machined a mount for the Ford ISC to mate up to the Mitsu TB. I have not run it yet kind of because you got the Mitsu unit to work. It appears you do not like how it is working?

I need to find the pictures of this part.

Charlie, it works fine so long as you turn the ignition switch to RUN, then wait for the stepper motor to make the pintle travel the entire distance and back to where it sets its stop point. That only takes 5 seconds, but sometimes it seems like an eternity..... particularly when you have to make several attempts to start.

I mostly have the multiple attempt issue when the engine temperature is between dead cold and operating temperature - then after starting at lukewarm temperatures, sometimes the engine goes into a rolling idle surge and I have to keep the revs up for an additional 30 seconds or so to keep it from dying. After it settles down, it idles fine - just as it does from a cold or hot start. Likely what I really need to do is work on the afterstart enrichment settings in MS and maybe it'll start better in all conditions.

Frank

I think Frank's rev counter looks like this now....





nice and fast revving!

Nice, except in his, you can see the gas gauge going down with the RPM going up <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Yes, it does - but my fuel gauge pointer doesn't stay in that poition as long as it used to do..... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> I can't keep my foot out of it at low speed.

This engine is incredibly smooth and sounds oh so nice.... and the LSD 3rd member really solved the tire spin issue. It hooks up right now.

I'll likely never discover all of the 3.0L SOHC engine secrets, but I find myself wondering how much more I can get from it if I tinker with the cams some more - and whether the Montero cams can produce more power than the Diamante cams....... or if I can benefit from a dual-pattern custom cam grind. It runs so well now across the board that I sorta hate to mess with it.

I sometimes think I should retard the cams to trade off some bottom end for highway acceleration, but I suspect I should adjust the TV cable first to get an earlier kickdown - that might be all it needs. A combination of the two might send me into orbit. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Frank <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />