I'll assume that Ted is EB?

I didn't mean to imply that. EB basicaly says in that thread they he never liked to ship longblocks, although he has done it a few times, & his son just doesn't do very many longblocks at all.

Not by me it isn't, it's always my biggest concern when forking over several hundred as a core charge.

I have a running but tired 84 pickup in decent work truck condition I got it cheap (free, actually). Compression is between 110 & 130. Gets 12-13 MPG up here in the mountains.
I also have a 87 4runner mostly parted out, but the EFI & AC parts are intact (except for the airflow sensor).

My plan is to put in a rebuilt 22RE with the 87 EFI parts (& the AC) & see which wears out first, the truck or the engine.

I've got a new job starting in about 2 weeks & I'll be putting on ~90 miles a day going over Donner Summit to get there. So this is not a hobby project, I have a deadline to meet.I'd be happy with a reliable stock-level rebuilt, & so would my almost non-existant bank account. But [email]d@mn[/email], if I could get some extra HP for a few $ more, I'll do it...we've got some pretty steep grades around here & getting passed by 10 wheelers isn't fun ( yeah, it's THAT bad right now).

Dave

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TOYO...615QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

So Sunwest has their complete longblock on e-bay for $1150. The $1995 is their "performance" block. Same warranty, new tc cover, etc.

Just scanned the thread a little bit, but if the only thing keeping you from getting half-fast's motor is cuz it's carbed, I'd say get it and convert in the future (someone correct me if that can't be done with that engine though).

My carbed '87 Xcab 4wd with 30x9.5 tires and 4.10 gears (and 196k miles) can cruise over Donner either way at 60-65 no problem, even 70 in 3rd if I really want to... although I usually don't. Of course, fuel consumption is always a concern, and that will be better with EFI, but since you have to get this done within two weeks, if there's a good deal on a carbed motor, I say go for it.

I saw that last night & was scratching my head. I asked if they had other options in my email but they only talked about the 2K one.

As far as Half Fast's motor:
I believe the early carbed heads need to be modified to put the EFI manifold on, not sure about later years. Besides seems foolish to do an engine change & *not* do the EFI since I would really prefer a fuel injected engine.

Also:Half Fast said on 5-25-06:

AND

So I don't think it'll be ready soon enough for this project.

In looking on Ebay I found Oregon Engine Rebuilder, which someone else here recomended. $995 & shipping should be under $400 both ways.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1

They offer these options that I'd like input on:
RV or Torque Cam $95
Over sized IN & EX valves 22R/22RE $125
(EB says those are two of the best mods to give a power boost, so I'll probably go with those.)
Keith Black hypereutectic 9.7-1 Pistons $280
New cylinder head $300
Steel slack timing chain guide$25

IIf you have inof on any of those good or bad, let me know, I'm probably gonna order this by the end of the day unless someone tells me Oregon Engines suck <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Just to update, I got a response from Oregon Engine at 10 pm so I've yet to order anything (I'm impressed that they are answering emails at that hour, but disappointed that they didn't get back sooner).

I'd still like some input on the options.
The RV cam Oregon offers doesn't seem optimal from what EB says.
hypereutectic 9.7-1 Pistons at $280 seems unlikely to offer anything useful for my application.
A new cylinder head for $300 ? Is the remanufactured head likely to give me trouble? What's the advantage?

One other update ( & maybe I should start a new thread to document the process) In removing the fuel line off the 87 4Runner today, I discovered that there's a clip on the line that's *in between* the frame & body (it's bolted to the top of the frame). I ended up taking out all the right side body to frame bolts so I could jack up one side of the body to get access.

I also discovered that if you miss the bolt at the very front of the vehicle, you can still jack up the right side of the frame with your jack under the body portion <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shame.gif" alt="" />

Dave