Hi!
I am in the process of trying to do a head removal (first time)on my 1990 4ZE1 2.6L, and was hoping some folks with experience could help me out with a few questions/problems I'm having. I have been using Rufus the Rams write-up on this(from 4x4 wire), plus the Haynes manual....although they don't always agree with each other! So far everything has gone fine with the exception of the EGR pipe on the exhaust side that was apparently welded into place! So here goes with question #1:

Camshaft sprocket removal/timing belt tensioner confusion. I know the camshaft sprocket has to come off, and that the timing belt needs to be loosened to do this. In Rufus' write up, the only directions to loosen the timing belt are to: loosen the timing belt tensioner bolt, and then turn the engine over with a breaker bar until the timing belt tensioner wheel pops out to the right. In the manual, it says to use a prybar to release pressure on the tensioner after loosening the tensioner bolt. This off course involves taking off the lower timing belt cover, which means more dissasembly. So what's the deal here? I don't see how simply loosening the tensioner bolt and rotating the engine RE the Rufus method allows the tension on the timing belt to be released? The spring is still putting pressure on it, right? Can anyone elighten me about what actually needs to happen here before I remove the camshaft sprocket? The manual also says to align camshaft and crankshaft marks before removing the sprocket, but I guess this is uneccessary if you are just removing the head (as long as the engine is not turned over at all)?

Question 2: Power steering pump bracket removal. Under the head removal section in the Haynes manual, it makes no mention of removing the power steering pump when taking the head off! Rufus says you do need to take off the power steering pump to allow access to the bolt that goes from the bracket into the head. I removed the pump, but I can't figure out how to get the bracket off? I removed the nut on the bolt that disappears into the head, but the bracket is still held solidly in place. What else is holding the bracket in place? Does this bracket really need to be removed to remove the head?

Question 3: Haynes manual says it is neccessary to remove the thermostat housing, Rufus makes no mention of this. I don't see why it would need to come off, but am I missing something? If anyone has the Haynes manual I am going off chapter 2A section 10, which is cylinder head removal and installation.

Well, that's it for now! This is all new to me, so I figured some of you who have done this job before could hopefully clear up my confusion. I hope everyone is enjoying the holiday weekend! Many thanks to anyone who can offer any info or advice!! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Lemmee try...

With the tensioner bolt loose, Rufus is suggesting that by turning the engine UNTIL THE TENSIONER MOVES OUT and then RE-TIGHTENING THE BOLT___ (don't miss that crucial piece of info!) you will be able to loosen the tensioner enough to remove the cam gear. I'm not sure this will work... I would think that you would need to somehow prevent the cam from turning, so that when you pull the breaker bar to turn the engine, the belt will push the tensioner back...

I forsee cam timing problems here though. Unless you are very lucky, you probably won't get the cam timed properly. If you mark the sprocket and the belt, you can be pretty sure they will go back on at the same spot, but, can you be absolutely certain that when the tension is off the belt that it won't skip a tooth on the crank pulley ???????

You shouldn't have to remove the PS pump bracket if you are only removing the head. You remove the bolt holding the bracket to the head, leave the bracket in place and lift the head off. IIRC, there is another bolt on the PS bracket that goes into the block.

I have no clue about the thermo housing... but, you will be installing a new thermostat, won't you ?

I'd like to ask you this question:

How new is your timing belt ? If you are going this far, it kinda makes sense to replace it now.

How new is your water pump ? ditto...

Thanks for the info Troopersphere. Sounds like you are a bit skeptical of Rufus' method for loosening the belt also. Hopefully someone else (or better yet him!) could shed some more light on the tensioner question.

I am still confused about the PS pump bracket. There is a bolt that penetrates from the head out to support the PS bracket. The only thing I have access to (that I can see) is the nut on the end of the bolt...so taking that nut off the threaded end still leaves the rest of the bolt that runs from outside the edge of the PS bracket into the head. I took that nut off, but the bracket itself does not want to slide off the end of that bolt so I can remove it. It seems like there is another bolt somewhere holding in place, but I have no idea where it is or how to access it?? You mentioned two bolts holding the bracket to the head...do you know where the second one is and how to get to it? I thought maybe the bracket is just rusted in place on the bolt, but I tried tapping it with wood and hammer to no effect.

The Trooper is in semi-retirement now, with a fairly recent timing belt, so I was thinking of leaving that alone for now....the water pump probably should be replaced though. Thanks for your help!

The PS bracket has two more bolts holding it to the block. They are underneath, above/behind the A/C pump (if you have A/C)

As you found, the bracket needs to be removed, as the stud that holds it to the head, is a, well...stud. So, the bracket must go.

Good Luck
Michael

Thanks Michael! I haven't had a chance to look yet, but I assume the AC compressor has to come off (I do have AC) to get to those bolts? Do you have any advice RE the timing belt tensioner question I posed above? I really do appreciate the help and insight...it makes a huge difference for someone like me who hasn't done this before!

I think Rufus' method has validity.

What you are doing when you do that is loosening the tensioner (it is normally clamped in position) by using the belt tension (in reverse of normal direction) to pull it out of the way. You are only turning the crank enough to take up the slack in the belt and move the tensioner. Any more and you really gain nothing more. Once it has moved, clamp it back in the *slack* position.

I just pulled my head, and I really did nothing with the tensioner. The cam pulley pulled off the cam and there was enough tension to keep everything in place with it resting on the lower cover. Will it work? I won't know until I put it back together. But, there did not seem to be enough slack to let it droop out of the teeth on the crank pulley. Oh well, if I have to take the lower cover off, no big deal.

Good Luck,
Michael

I just went and looked at mine, cuz I thought it was a bolt... my fading memory failed me again; my mind's eye was picturing the air pump, which does have two bolts into the head. You _might_ be able to get a stud extractor on the stud, but the extra work to drop the A/C compressor and remove the PS bracket is really not a big deal. Don't lose the spacer!

Rufus is not active on "the wire" any more, but I believe he may still be on pirate. He was very responsive when I was doing my head job last year.

In any event, if you decide not to drop the lower cover, when you get the belt back on, before you button everything up, it should be easy enough to line up the marks and check the cam timing before you start it (it _is_ an interference engine!)

Thanks for the info fellas. That is interesting Michael that you were able to get the camshaft sprocket off without relieving tension on the T-belt. My dad and I were debating whether we should try that, but I was thinking it would be just too difficult to remove if the belt was not loosened. Maybe I should give it a shot though if it worked for you.

I am still a little confused on the timing belt tensioner thing...this would be irrelevant if I take the lower timing belt cover off and can pry on the tensioner wheel by hand, but just so I understand better what you were saying: Troopersphere mentioned wedging something in the camshaft sprocket before turning the engine over, but neither you nor Rufus mentioned doing that. It would be neccessary though, right? Otherwise you wouldn't create the necessary force to push the tensioner out? Thanks again for everyones advice in helping be understand things better!

You are totally over analyzing this. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> Just take it apart. If the rest of the timing cover has to come off, so be it. If you pull the head bolts, the head actually tips forward and there is plenty of slack in the timing belt to get the cam sprocket off.

As far as wedging anything, anywhere...go for it if needed. The force comes from the resistance of the cam on the valves and springs and the rest of the system. An engine is not a friction free thing.

Good Luck,
Michael

I don't think he's "over analyzing" anything Michael... I tend to do the same think when I'm contemplating some new endeavor. (remember he said he's never done this before) I want to know every single little thing that can happen. It's the Boy Scout motto: Be Prepared! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />

So, you lift the rear of the head and release the tension on the belt, take off the sprocket. Great! But now I gotta ask you, how are you gonna get it back together? Are you planning on the reverse action? I bet you booger up that new head gasket... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif" alt="" />



No, of course it's not, but I'm not betting that there's enough friction in the valve train to pull that tensioner back without physically restricting the movement of the cam. That's a pretty healthy spring on that tensioner.