<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/barf.gif" alt="" />I am doing a 4.0 head conversion on my 1983 258 engine. It has 7/16 inch head bolts. The only place I have been able to find them is through the Dealer at $25.00 each. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/barf.gif" alt="" /> Hesco has quoted (from a Dealer) approximately $250 for a set. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/barf.gif" alt="" /> Jegs and Summit can only get 1/2 inch head bolts. Does anyone know where I can get a new set of 7/16 inch head bolts for a 258 or 4.0? Should I re-use the original head bolts even though it is advised against in all the publications about this conversion. Should I have the block drilled out to 1/2 inch head bolt holes?

My 7/16 head bolts are on at least their third and I'm pretty sure no less than their 4th head with no problems yet. I see no reason not to reuse them, just be sure to tighten them to 7/16 specs. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

JeePete; I like the way you do things, read the recommendations, then use common sense and do it your way. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/butwiggle.gif" alt="" /> I wanted to hear someonelses experience with this and I think the most important thing will be to torque to the 7/16 inch bolt specs. I spoke with a local engine/machine shop today to get an idea of the cost to re-tap the 1/2 inch holes and he said "Thats BS, re-use the bolts you have they'll be fine we do it all the time. The important thing is to torque them in the correct order and to the correct specs." <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />
Do you remember if you got those specs from a Chilton or Haynes book. The specs should be the same for a 4.2 head as well as 4.0 head right? I don't know if my book has the specs for the 4.0 head, I will check later. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Bur the only new head bolts I've ever installed were on really big hioutput engines. I always reuse the Jeep bolts time after time.. NEVER had a problem doing this. Go ahead! I doubt there is any risk outside of over torqueing the things.
Big Jim <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />

The 7/16 bolts should be torqued to no more than 85 ft lbs. The first bolt hole (from the front) on the drivers side goes into the water jacket. You need to put sealer on it (i use aviation permatex) the Haynes manual I just looked at dosn't mention this. I don't like Haynes manuals, it also says to coat both sides of the new gasket with AMC gasket sealer. DON"T USE ANY SEALER ON THE HEAD GASKET! All bolts and holes need to be clean and the bolts should be lightly oiled. It's recommended you run a tap into all the bolt holes to make sure they are clean. Usually that one that enters the water jacket needs attention. Hopefully I'm wasting my time telling you all this, it's mostly in all the manuals, some of it is important, just not the part about always using new head bolts. That is critical on some more modern engines but not on any AMC engines I know of. If you have a choice between a Haynes or a Chiltons manual I'd go with the Chiltons! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

I know that FELPRO makes head bolt sets for the 2.5 L...I think around 25 bucks for the SET...these guys are right, though...they aren't torque-to-yeild bolts which aren't reusable.

Mine were just re-used on my 2.5 rebuild.

JeePete, thanks for getting back to me with that info on the torque specs, cleaning the holes with a tap, the sealer on (I think it is number 11 in the torque sequence), and not to use any sealer on the head/block. I agree about Chiltons, I have both books but always seem to follow Chiltons but my Chilton says NOT to put sealer on the head or block but DO put sealer on both sides of the gasket. What do you think? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> Your advice and suggestions are greatly appreciated and not a waste of time to me. I consider this help very valuable, hope I can return the favors some time. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />
The thing that made me chuckle was that I was coming online to ask about the torque specs for the 7/16 bolts. Chiltons said 85/75 ft lbs. The articles on this conversion say 110/100 ft lbs. You beat me to the punch on that one, thanks. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

The last couple of Felpro head gasket sets I have bought, for 258 and 4.0, had a warning paper in the set saying DO NOT use any sealer. I didn't and have had no problems. The only engine I've ever had to use sealer on the head gasket was a little industrial Mercedes diesel. I forgot about tightening the one bolt with sealer a little less, I believe the reason is because there are not as many threads in the hole. The conversion article is assuming you are using 1/2" bolts. 110 is too much for 7/16 head bolts. The block is not nearly as hard as the bolts and the threads may strip if you over tighten. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Never, never, NEVER put anything on a head gasket! You want everything clean and DRY! The gasket itself does all the sealing.
Big JIm <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />

OK I think I'm good to go on this thing. I should have the head by Friday and then install Saturday AM. Thats when "SH** will hit the fan" and hopefully all goes well and I will be up and ready in a short time. After the head is on then comes the Mopar MPI. Yahoo! Thanks you guys and I'll be in touch if something comes up and you know something will. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> If not I let you know when its done.
Thanks again. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />