Sorry no pics yet maybe after Cala-Zu.
I dropped the radiator this weekend.On a 98+ Rodeo
The job wasn't too bad after removing the 50# skidplate
and draining anti-freeze---------over everything and the bucket. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />
I rate this a 5 out of 10.
1 being the lift and 10 being the rack/pinion replacement.
You will need:
basic tools to remove Fan shroud(upper part),drain coolant into a suitable container(it is poisonous for animals)
remove the upper/lower radiator hoses and remove and plug the autotrans cooler(if equip'd).
For the ATF cooler have 4---3/8" bolts handy to plug the lines with.
Since I lengthen'd the lines(atf cooler) when B/L was done,I cut them about 1 1/2" from the radiator and quickly inserted the bolts into the ends of the hoses to control leaking/fluid loss.
Remove the 2 upper radiator mounts.1 bolt each.
pull radiator out of truck and since it's out go ahead and spray all the built-up wheeling gunk out of it and let it drip dry in the sun.(trust me you want the radiator dry for the test fittings.) <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />
This next part is specific to The Turtle,which is running an electric helper fan inside of the factory shroud,which we will be keeping.
Using a dremel tool with cut-off wheels in it.Cut off both lower brackets,right below the spotwelds and remove them....
various screwdrivers and chisel will help this process.
take a 2 1/4" wide pc of steel(I used 1/8")about 6" long.
line up the bracket with one of the edges.The edge of the factory bracket that faces up.This will allow you to keep the spacing between holes the same as stock.
After lining up the bracket on the metal,so the top and side has enough room to be welded.measure up from the top of the bracket 3" and cut-off the metal.After its welded to the extended bracket,when you put it back into the truck it will butt up against what is left when you cut it off.
I then took a 4 1/2" grinder with a cut-off wheel in it and cut off the 1" lip of the radiator support which is directly under the radiator.
Doing this will remove the factory bend and spot welding between both pcs of the radiator support.You will need to spot weld the 2 edges back together or they may flop in the wind.
I lined up the lower mounts and tacked them into place.
Lower'd radiator back in to check hole locations,they were
good so I welded the new mounts in.
After welds cool,remember plastic radiator.
I set radiator back in place.
I cut the upper mounts at the last bend,flattend the side attached to the radiator support and welded an extension in, to drop the bracket.
I reinstalled everything,burped the system a couple times and took it for a drive <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />
even without the lower shroud on it climb'd stoney creek
mountain w/o the needle moving.That will normally make the guage climb to 3/4 atleast before pulling over.
So far so good,it runs alot cooler than it did,while climbing hills.I need to get a lower shroud this weekend.
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If you are not running an aux. fan then you can move the radiator towards engine 3/4" and drop it 3",so the radiator butchery doesn't have to happen.
Basicaly just cut your brackets at the bends before the 3/4-1" hole and weld in 3" pcs and you should be good to go.
Bansil
After pre reading this,it <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/barf.gif" alt="" /> w/o pics sorry folks.
but if you attempt this you'll know what I'm talking about.
