It does engage the crank hub, but not very deep. It probably would have been perfect if I hadn't trimmed it <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif" alt="" />

ANdre: very cool. I hope things finish out well. Continued luck w/ the trailblazing <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />. Mark

HEY ANDRE , IT SHOULD BE OK IF IT IS GOING INTO THE MACHINED DOWN AREA THAT I CAN SEE IN THE PIX WHICH LOOKS TO BE ABOUT 1/4 INCH OR SO ON THE SNOUT OF THE CONV, IF YOU ARE GOING TO PULL IT BACK OUT SEE IF YOU CAN MEASURE AND GET AN IDEA OF HOW FAR THE CONV IS GOING INTO THE CRANK HUB,WHAT YOU CAN DO HERE IS PULL THE CRANK BUSHING OUT AND PUT A SHIM BEHIND IT AND THEN DRIVE IT BACK IN ,ALARGE FENDER WASHER WOULD BE OK FOR THIS ,IT SURE ISN,T GOING ANYWHERE, THAT BUSHING CAN BE A SOB TO G ET OUT , I USUALLY PUT THEM IN A LATHE AND POLISH THE HECK OUT OF THEM AND THEN ANTISIEZE SO SOME DAY THEY CAN BE TAKEN OUT AGAIN, IT WILL TAKE APRETTY GOOD SLIDE HAMMER TO GET THE BUSHING OUT , GOOD LUCK JERRY I

Ok guys,
I need some input here

I should get some good wrenching time this weekend, and I'm still undecided about how to deal with the clearance issue between the T-case and the torsion bar



It's resting somewhat solid on the bar, but I can pull it off with some effort. It will probably make an aweful rackett once I crank the engine if I leave it like this.

Here's what I've come up with so far:

-The easiest solution would be to get some foam pipe insulation and wrap the torsion bar.

-The T-case is somewhat thick in this area, I could probably grind it down a bit, but I wouldn't want to take off more than 1/8".

-I could re-drill the cross member mount to locate the case about 1/2" to the drivers side, but this would probably be a PITA to install and remove, and would stress the engine mounts.

Or some combination of the above.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />Andre

I don't think the insulation foam would last 100 miles without wearing through.

Depending on the thickness of the case grinding a bit could work.

I think nudging the tranny mount over a bit would be best.

You only need 1/8", it not like that case is going to move a bunch.

Also, are those stock 4wd torsion bars? You can switch to 2wd bars and gain a couple of mm of clearance. Not sure how they would handle the extra weight of the 4wd though.

They are actually the Calmini HD torsion bars. With my DOR bumper and winch up front, I really don't want to downgrade those.

I think you're right about the logevity of the foam. My fear about the grinding alone is that the t-case is resting firmly on the bar now. With grinding alone, it seems like the case would just rest that much farther over.

I'm going to see if there is any adjustability in the engine mounts, but adjusting the tranny mount is probably the way to go.

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />Andre

I think having side pressure on a heavy spring is a Bad Thing. I think the case will wear notches into the bar and cause a weak point that is likely to snap eventually...unless the case gives up first.

And I agree with the other Steve, foam wrap isn't going to do diddley for you.

It doesn't seem feasible to move the t-bar. I would try clearancing the case if you think that will be enough...but the t-case will move a fair amount with the engine under load, depending on engine mount flex. And if you don't get enough clearance, you have now weakened your case right where it contacts the t-bar...what a PITA, so close and yet so far. Good luck!

I think I'd loosen both the tranny mount and the motor mounts and see if you can nudge everything over just a bit. A little bit of movement at the motor mounts will account for a considerable amount of clearance at the T-case.

Good luck.

Joe

How about this or a combo of the following suggestions.

shift the whole drivetrain over 3/8" TC mounts and tranny mounts--elongate the holes about 3/8"

and now the fun part! take off the motor mounts after drawing a verticle line and horisontal line (a cross) between the motor frame side mount cut out 3/8" of the drvs one and cut the passenger in two pcs,place a 3/8 pc of steel in there and weld it up this should get you the movemnet you need down line.

If you need a tool to elongate holes or pcs to insert into mounts call me <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

good luck I said it would be fun.......

OH and P.S

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />
Elongating just the tranny mount and tc mounts will probable move everything over fine w/o over stressing the motor mounts since the actual angular movement isn't very much over 4ft if one end is moved 3/8".....Do the trig based on a 90* triangle that is 90* to the centerline of the motor-----this is where everything will pivot,so it might not be much if both mounts twist say .090 of an inch....to pull those bolts to get the motor out one day you'll have to loosen all the tc/tranny bolts to allow everything to go back to nuetral.

Youmay have to open up the farthest rear hole diameters also to allow front to rear shifting as your ti=riangle moves.....

does that make sence <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/zombie.gif" alt="" /> if not give me a shout......
Bansil

It is dark and raining right now, I don't wanna look under mine. But couldn't you cut the torsion bar rear mount, take a half inch or so out of the mount, move it farther outboard. And reweld it to gain clearance?