You mean in essence shorten the adjustment arm? Hmmm, I'm not sure how easy that would be...the t-bars fit pretty tightly into the front A-arm mount, and pushing the back end over might require a side strain on the bar...not sure what, if any, the consequences of that would be regarding the life span of the bar or the action of the suspension ...I guess I can't say for sure it is a bad idea or not.

Might be worth looking at. At worst I guess if it didn't work you could always go to a boneyard and get a new unmodified adjustment arm and go back to the stock arrangement.

I would consider this a last resort. I agree with BigSwede about messing with the torsion bar geometry. Plus, there is a lot of force on that mount. I think I can work around it. This will be the first item of business this weekend.

Thanks for the suggestions
<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />Andre

Not the arm, the mount. I just looked under my troopers. And the mount could only be moved outboard about 3/8" to maybe 1/2". By the time the gain gets to the t-case it would be half of that. No more than 1/4", doubt it would be worth the effort.

I made some headway on a bunch of things this weekend. I got most of the radiator drop done, new hoses, and remounted the trans cooler. I just need to extend the top radiator bracket.

I got my new shifter <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />


This is made by NorthWest FabWorks. This is the linkage all hooked up


I had to make up some brackets and widen the opening to mount it in the cab


A preview of the finished look


I got the tranny mount finished up as well.


I loosened the engine mounts and put a wooden spacer between the torsion bar and the case. I only had to re-drill one hole for the transmission mount. Once I bolted everything up, I pulled out the spacer...


I ordered my transmission temp gauge, and I found a universal A-pillar gauge pod that I mutilated to make fit <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />.

I measured for my driveshafts, which I will drop off this week to be lengthened.

The only issue I'm having is with shifting the T-case. I started with both outputs in neutral, and was able to shift the rear into high range, but that's it. I'm afraid to pull any harder on the shifter, and it won't budge. The tera gears came with four poppet spring shims. The reason being that when a twin stick is used, it has a tendancey to pop out of gear (or so I understand). I installed one shim under each spring. I'm going to call Northwest Fabworks in the morning to get their advice.

It's getting there...
<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />Andre

How much difference between the 4l30e and the 700r4 D300 as far as location wouldn't the stock driveshaft bolt up with the flanges you have on the d300? Where does the t case sit compared to the stock one? Also how did the starter work any pics of that?

I am going to a SAS soon so when my 4l30 dies It would be cool to have a700r4 and a two stick t-case

I wrote down the overall lengths of both transmissions somewhere, but the 700R4 was a bit shorter. The main difference is the lenght of the T-case. The D300 is atleast 6" shorter. This has the rear driveshaft coming up short, and the front is too long. I took some measurements tonight. Should get them to the driveline shop this week.



The new case sits a bit farther towards the front than the stock one did, but they are generally in the same place. The T-case adapter I chose has some clocking built in when used with the Dana 300. This results in much better clearance than the stock unit. I'll get some pics, but the lowest thing on the frame will be the stock transmission cross member.



Since the starter bolts up to the engine, and I didn't change the flex plate, nothing had to be done with the starter. This transmission has a cut-away bellhousing, and the starter falls into this cut out area. I need to figure something out for a dust shield. There are plenty available, but everyone I've seen has the starter on the passenger side <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

I can start and run everyting without the dust shield, so I'll figure that out later.

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />Andre

Well thats not good news I was hoping it sat back further I will not be changing the wheelbase with the SAS because it doesnt look right when your'e front tires sit past the bumper. So I know I will have some crazy driveshaft angle in the front

That's standard D300 shifting. You can't shift it in and out standing still like an Isuzu case. You need to be rolling slowly or have someone underneath wiggling the output back and forth while you're trying to shift. And a firm pop on the shifter works better than just pulling or pushing.

--Dan

Andre,

Congratulations on your continued progressà Keep up the good work! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />




Ahhà but as for the contents of this photo:



"DIBS" on that Power/Winter Button!!! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />


<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />
<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Thanks Dan <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

I wasn't looking foward to pulling half the case apart to get those shims out <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />. I tried to line up the teeth on the gears underneath, and then tried to shift into gear. I'll try more of a popping motion, but the "rolling" part will have to wait for driveshafts <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />



Dare I ask what happened to your Power/Winter button Smiley?

It obviously will not be functional now, but I hadn't planned to remove it just yet. When and if I do pull it, you will have "DIBS" <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />Andre