My guess would involve a 2 Ltr of diet dew and a big bump offroad <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" />

100 people surveyed...
Top 5 answers on the board...

Name a reason that Smiley would need a new Power/Winter Button.





'An off-road diet soda spillage'.

Survey says...


**Bvvrrrrrrrt** <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shame.gif" alt="" />


<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />



First of all, my trail vehicle (the Rodeo) is a 5-speed.
EVERYONE knows that the VX doesn't go off-road <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shame.gif" alt="" /> (YET <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif" alt="" /> )

The fact is, the Winter Button hasn't worked since we got the VX - and the one that I snagged out of a wrecked 2nd Gen Trooper turned out to be aligned 90* offà

(As in: The words are facing the wrong way <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/baby.gif" alt="" /> )




Many 'aesthetic' thanks, Andre <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />


<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />
<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

This was exactly what I was thinking. If it doesn't I would think you would have a balancing issue. Even the slightest could really reek havoc. Other than that potenttial issue I got to say you are an explorer in your time. I know many folks have talked about doing this but you are the first that I can recall that jumped out there and is doing it. It definitely has to be more stout than the 4L30 that I have just replaced for the second time.

I should be to the point of adding fluids this week, and the first thing I'm going to do is put it in neutral(haven't got the linkage hooked up <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif" alt="" />), and get everything turning. I'm hoping that any balance or vibration issues will be very evident with everything sitting still.



Thanks man <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> Just like with most of my mod projects, this is the first time I've ever attempted anything of this nature. What better way to learn, right <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />

I promised not to work on the truck today <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />, but there are only a handfull of things left to do. I picked up an extra long TV cable yesterday, along with my driveshafts. The cable I had was coming up 6" short. I ordered a universal TV cable bracket that should work well with a couple of modifications


I'm having to shorten it up about 1", and drill one more hole to mount it. I got a stud to mount to the throtle, which will attach to the cable. I haven't come up with the perfect idea to attach the stud, since it has to be mounted where there currently is no material. What I've been messing with is epoxying a plastic extension onto the throtle arm, which will be drilled for the stud. It should be sturdy enough since it dosen't require much force to pull the cable. I'll get some pics of that setup.

The driveshafts really pull everything together


And here is how the temp gauge ended up


The gauge pod was a $20 universal I found at the local Discount Auto. The gauge is an Autometer Z-Series. I cut and melted and bent the pod into a reasonable shape, and found some paint that was pretty close to the interior. I had previously installed a tranny cooler, and I kept the same setup with the radiator cooler before the remote cooler, and the temp sensor is in line just before the first cooler.

I need to clearance the transmission pan a bit for the driveshaft, bend the dip stick into shape, and get the TV cable set up. This will get it running, and then I need to finish up the shifter linkage. I have one selector arm, but it's meant for the inside end of the selector shaft. It could work, but I think I'm going to hit the JY this Saturday, and try to find a stock one. I also need a dust shield. As far as I can tell, all the stock setups had the starter on the passenger side. I will probably have to relocate the starter "bulge" where I need it.

I can't wait to drive it again <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />Andre

Good to hear Andre,happy 4th.
<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />I also say'd I wouldn't work on the Trooper today <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />,it's a family day,we went GeoCaching. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

All these "little details" that I've been putting off now seem to be the only things left to do <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" /> I was fitting the throtle valve cable tonight, and came upon a snag. The first TV cable I got came up a good bit short. I stopped by the transmission shop the other day, and got the longest one they had. This one measures 45.2", and is still about 6" short <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" /> I need to find a longer one somewhere <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

I was thinking about some sort of linkage extension, or some way to add an extension to the cable <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

I figured I could get the throtle end figured out if nothing else, so I test fit the cable and bracket


Here it is without the throtle in place


You can get an idea of where the stud needs to be to mount the cable. I'm thinking about a flat piece of steel that I can bolt to the plastic throtle arm in two places. Should be plenty sturdy.

I also trimmed my transmission pan to clear the driveshaft


And one of the weights the shop used to balance the shaft was looking to be pretty tight


I decided that I'd rather have a little more clearance than a perfectly balanced front shaft <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />Andre

I managed to re-route the TV cable and get everything to fit.

This piece is made from a piece of 16 ga steel


and mounted on the throttle body


Everything painted up and re-installed


Here is the clearanced tranny pan installed


I got the cooling system sealed and topped off, and the T-case is full. The only real thing left to do is the dip stick. I creased up the universal one I picked up trying to negotiate it into shape <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />. I found a flexible one that mounts to the firewall that should do the trick.

I bought some steel rod to splice and extend the stock shifter linkage, and that should do it.

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />Andre

HEY ANDRE THAT LINKAGE ON THE TRANS CABLE REALLY LOOKS GOOD , AND EASY TO ADJUST,I THINK YOU WILL BE REALLY PLEASED WITH THE TRANNY ,ESP THAT LOW 1ST GEAR , YOU MAY HAVE TO HAVE A GOOD BIT OF SLACK AGAINST THE ADJUSTING FERRAL TO KEPT THE TRANS FROM STAYING IN GEAR TOO LONG, THAT THING SHOULD HAVE A DYNAMITE FIRST GEAR TAKEOFF , ADJUST IT SO IT SHIFTS OUT OF LOW AROUND 15 -18 MPH WITH A LITE THROTTLE AND YOU WILL BE HAPPY JERRY

Thanks Jerry <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

I did have some questions about the TV cable adjustment. The specs I found said that the stud should be 1 3/32" radially from the center of rotation, and placed so that 1/3 of the movement is in front of the vertical axis. I set the cable to be fully pulled at WOT. Based on the measurements, it should have the proper pull.

On the other end of the cable, there is a spring loaded arm connected to the cable, that engages the piston that controls the pressure. The arm has some movement before it contacts the piston. Like I said, the piston is fully depressed at WOT, but at idle, the spring arm does not even contact the piston.

The adjustment instructions I've found say that the cable should be under tension at idle. If you're just going by feel, the cable has tension, but it is only the spring resistance, and not engaging the piston. If the piston should be slightly engaged at idle, then I have too much pull on the cable, and need to shorten the arm.

I'm sure that the shift point will tell me more when I get it going, but this is all I have to work with for now.

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />Andre

HEY ANDRE WHAT I WOULD DO IS GIVE THE CABLE JUST ABOUT 3/8IN OR SO OF SLACK AT IDEL POSITION AND TRY A COUPLE OF STARTS AND SEE WHERE IT SHIFTS AS LONG AS YOU HAVE SOME THROTTLE PRSS AT THE SHITF POINTS WHEREVER THEY MAY BE YOU WILL NOT HURT THE TRANS YOU JUST DON,T WANT IT TO SHORT SHIFT , UNDER LOW PRESSURE LIKE A GRANNY TRANS , THE FIRMER IT SHIFTS THE LONGER IT WILL LAST, ANOTHER WAY TO ADJUST THE THROTTLE PRES, IS TO GET THE SHIFT POINTS WHERE YOU WANT THEM AND THEN SEE WHERE THE SHIFT OCCURS UNDER HEAVY THROTTLE, AT 40-55 AND FLOOR THE THROTTLE AND MAKE IT BACKSHIFT IN TO THE NEXT LOWER GEAR, NOW YOU GOT IT PRETTY CLOSE ALONG WITH A NICE FIRM SHIFT , UNDER FULL THROTTLE IT SHOULD REALLY BELT EM IN AND STAY IN 3RD UNTILL AT LEAST 70 OR SO MAY EVEN GO HIGHER DEPENDING ON THE GOVERNOR SETTING SPRING INSIDE THE TRANS JERRY .