So any idea how much cash you got tied up in this conversion so far counting every nut, bolt, once of fluid, everything but your labor time? I know just replacing the stock tranny with a like stock tranny the extra's you don't thing about really add up fast such as torque converter, hard lines, soft lines, fluids, cooler, new bolts for those stripped out, degreaser, etc.

I've got a stack of receipts for everything so far, but I've yet to total it up. I tried to keep a good record of both part numbers and sources. I'll work on a running total tonight.

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />Andre

I broke out the receipt file, and I'm actuall prety close to what I figured. I'm at $2450 for everything down to ATF. That includes the gears, twin stick, and all the upgrades to the T-case. I ended up buying duplicate items, like dipsticks and TV cables, and some tools and things, but I didn't include that in the cost.

The only things left to do is have the exhaust piped, and build skid plates. I should be able to fine tune it next week.

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />Andre

I want to clarify this a bit more, and give you and idea of the minimal cost involved here. The T-case gears and twin stick alone ran about $740. These are by no means necessary, as well as a $60 transmission pan that I picked up to give me additional capacity and a drain plug.

The big items here are as follows:
-TH700R4 (rebuilt with Transgo shift kit, upgraded servos, and a 4wd output shaft, including torque converter) $850 from local shop that happend to have one
-Dana300 (JY find, passed around the Isuzu community) $150
-NP208 T-case adapter (from JB Conversions) $25
-27-spline input shaft for Dana300 (JB Conversions) $179

With all of the other small(er) items totaling about $500, that brings the budget total to $1710, not including the exhaust work. You would still need to add a shifter for the T-case, or do some fab work and adapt the stock one.

I'll get a much more detailed inventory put together when I do a more formal writeup, but that should give you a good idea of what to expect.

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />Andre

Dropped the truck off at the exhaust shop this morning. I actually drove it up last night so my neighbors woudn't awake to my noisey <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/butwiggle.gif" alt="" />. I went over exactly what I wanted, and in order to make it removable for the unavoidable maintenance, he said it will probably need to be built in 3 pieces. It should be done today.

I had to get the new cross memeber installed this weekend, so they could route everything properly.

Out with the old, in with the new


I left about 2" of the stock cross member on the frame to use as a mount for the new piece. It's made from 2x2x3/16 that was left over from my sliders. I'll eventually reinstall the seat belt safety loops on the new cross member. I've got a piece of 1/4 plate comming to do a flat skid.

Theoretically, tonight I'll get to really test things out <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />Andre

So close. Report back with good results. Fingers are crossed here.

Joe

x2 <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />


<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />
<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Dude, <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />but:





















































it's 7pm!!!!!that's night,is she ok?good to go?
Fingers are crossed for you also.

Bansil

You can't expect me to bring my truck home at 5:30, and not have things to tinker with till dark! (or rain in my case) <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Things are good. Things are still sluggish. It shifts very firmly, but much too early. It goes through the first three gears by about 30mph (guessing <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />), and then hits OD at about 45. I think it might be an issue of drag. When I torqued down the rear output flange on the T-case to spec (120 ft-lbs), I couldn't turn the shaft by hand. I have read about similar issues with newly built Atlas cases being extremely tight after assembly. I was hoping that once things got turning, the bearings would get seated and loosen up. I need to pull the rear shaft, and see how things feel.

One thing is also evident. My T-case leaks like an SOB <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" />

It is flowing from around the rear output flange (got slung all over the new exhaust <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />), from the inside of the front output flange, and from the front output bearing retainer. I'm going to see how things turn, but I might be pulling the case back off this week <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />

After I rule out the T-case, I'll adjust the TV cable. It might be giving a bit too much pressure.

Oh, and despite some trial and error with the ground wires, I still can't get my trans temp gauge operating <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />, and I still have binding issues with the steering thanks to the body lift <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />

No one said it would be easy,
<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />Andre

ANDRE IF IT IS SHIFTING INTO HIGH GEAR THAT EARLY GIVE IT MORE THROTLE PRESSURE NOT LESS , AT A LITE THROTTLE TAKEOFF YOU ARE NOT FAR OFF RIGHT NOW ,WITH YOUR SET UP I WOULD THINK INTO HI GEAR AT ABOUT 40 , NOW STEP DOWN ON THE THROTTLE AND SEE IF IT DOWN SHIFTS , IF IT DOES YOU SHOULD BE OK JERRY