I just took it for a drive after reading your post Jerry. I took a spin around the block the way it was, and then adjusted the TV cable to provide more pull (pressure ?) at idle. That seemed to cause it to shift even sooner. It was out of first before I was all the way through the intersection.

Should I be going the other way? Im assuming that the farther the cable is pulled, the greater the pressure.

As for the steering,Smiley told me something like he loosened the steering column bolts under the dash and at the firewall and just kinda let the column move on it's own,then tighten'd it back.look at his B/L writeup,it might be in there,
G/L

bansil

It isnÆt -- but thatÆs because I didnÆt notice any difference after loosening those bolts and re-tightening themà

Nothing helped - at least, not until I replaced the Steering Column (and needlessly so, I might add û since the problem that I was trying to address at the time was actually being caused by a bent Idler Arm <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" /> ) --- Nevertheless, while replacing the Steering Column, I finally discovered why my columnÆs expansion/compression boot was ripped to shredsà and, in-turn (*No pun intended!*), what to do about ità

Just as you have apparently discovered on yoursà The clearances are so tight to begin with, that when you install a body lift on a Gen 1.5 Rodeo (and the earlier Gen 1s as well, so it would seem), the lobed/semi-ovular expansion/compression joint on the Steering Column can make contact with the nearby A/C hard-line while the column is in the horizontal/wide orientations of its rotation......... Sort of a æThump û thump û thumpÆ while you are turning the steering wheel. --- Perhaps worse in your case.

On mine, it was never so bad that it actually bound-up the steeringà but rather, as noted above, it did rip the boot apart. --- I always felt it, but I could never quite figure out the source of the noise/sensation û mainly because whenever I was checking it û (parked, with the tires pointed straight ahead) - the lobed section of the Steering Column was always in its vertical orientation, and therefore not making contact with anything at that particular moment.


Until I swapped Steering Columns, Joe and I had always assumed that the ripped boot was a result of the increased angle after doing the Body Liftà It wasnÆt until I was trying to get the new column in there (with a bit of rotation on it) that I discovered the clearance issue.

I solved it, once-and-for-all, by VERY CAREFULLY taking the flat end of my crowbar and pushing against the A/C hard-line; forcing it toward the passenger side, about a-half-an-inch closer to the engine. --- Since thenà No more Thump û thump û thumpÆ <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

HTH


* I probably ought to go back and add this little tid-bit of information to my BL write-up, huh? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />


<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />
<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

I have been trying to negotiate that A/C line, in a not so carefull manner, with screw drivers, crowbars, bare hands, basically anything I can fit in there. I will probably have to pull the intake, and get more clearance to pry.

I knew someone else had this issue.

Thanks Smiley,
<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />Andre

Andre û With the driverÆs side front tire removed, and my trusty crowbar in-hand - I ultimately succeeded in getting it to budge (and stay budged) by applying a considerable amount of steadily increasing force upon the vertical section of the A/C line, more-or-less immediately above the forward couplingà This caused it to bend ever-so-slightly at a point very close to where the line is firmly attached, and therefore resistant - rather than simply absorb the force and rebound right back into its original position, just as it had done on all of my previous attempts (and yours too, by the sound of it).

But please donÆt thank me YET! --- Depending on how things go, there is still a good possibility that you might end-up cussing me instead <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />


Good luck! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />


<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />
<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Pulling the tire might just give me the angle and range of motion I need to shift that thing all of 1/4".

I'll give it a shot, but I will reserve my "thanks" till the outcome is assured <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />Andre

The binding does seem to be a problem for some people, though not for others. We determined the loosening and realigning of the steering column does help- see this thread. The contact with the ac line may be related, I'm not too sure. I removed my locked up AC compressor before the body lift.

HEY ANDRE SOMETHING IS NOT KOSHER HERE , PULLING THE CABLE OUT QUICKER IN REALTION TO THE THROTTLE OPENING SHOULD BE DELAYING THE UPSHIFT , TRY ADJUSTING THE CABLE AT CLOSED THROTTLE WITH ABSOLUTELY NO SLACK BETWEEN THE CABLE BRACKET AND THE THROTTLE ARM ,IF IT IS SHIFTING QUICKER IT DEFINATELY HAS THE THROTTLE PRESSURE AND THE GOVERNOR PRESSURE WORKING , WHAT IS SUPPOSSED TO BE HAPPENING IS WHEN YOU STEP DOWN ON THE THROTTLE AND RAISE THE THROTTLE PRESSURE , BEFORE IT CAN UP SHIFT THE GOVERNOR PRESSURE HAS TO OVERCOME THE TV PRESSURE , LOW TV PRESS, AND THE GOV/PRESSURE WILL COME QUICKLY AND A SHIFT IS MADE THE GOV/P IS CONTROLLED BY DRIVE SHAFT SPD OR OUTPUT SHAFT SPD ,, DONT, LET THE TRANS BE SHORT SHIFTING IT IS NOT GOOD FOR THE TRANS ,LOW T/V PRESS CAN MAKE IT SHIFT TOO SMOOTH AND CAN CAUSE A SLIP , HOWEVER I DON,T THINK YOU TRANS WILL HAVE THAT PROB, SOUNDS LIKE THE GUY DID A GOOD REBUILD ON IT , TRY THIS REMOVE THE THROTTLE CABLE FORM THE THROTTLE ARM AND PULL IT ALL THE WAY OUT AND SEE IF IT GOES BACK IN BY ITSELF , THERE SHOULD BE A SPRING TO RETRACT THE CABLE, NOW PULL THE CABLE OUT ABOUT HALF TO 3/4 OF IT TRAVEL AND CLIP A SMALL PAIR OF VISE GRIPS TO THE CABLE ITSELF JUST TO KEEP IT FROM GOING BACK IN AND DRIVE IT AND SEE IF THAT DOESN,T CHANGE YOUR SHIFT POINT S , NOW IT MAY DOWN SHIFT KINDA HARD SLOWING UP BUT IT WON,T HURT ANYTHING AND YOU CAN GET AN IDEA OF THE SHIFT TIMING THEN HOOK THE CBALE BACK UP AND ADJUST ACCORDINGLY,IDON,T THINK YOU ARE GETTING ENOUGH T/V P FOR THE AMOUNT OF THROTTLE OPENING YOU ARE GETING , JERRY

OK, I started where I left off last night. The TV cable was set so that it was full extended before WOT. It was still short shifting, and it felt pretty soft. I adjusted the cable back to where I started, with it fully pulled at WOT. This seemed it to shift at a higher RPM (about 2200). Then I tried Jerrys suggestion, removing the cable from the throttle arm, and setting it at 3/4 pull. This caused the shift to 2nd to move to 3200 RPM, and was very firm. And that was with only mild throttle. I never did get it to shift to 3rd.

It seems like, with the exception of the extreme adjustment, the adjustments are having the opposite effect they should <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />




When you say no slack, do you mean the cable pulled all the way?

I definately have a spring retracting the cable.

Steering is no better either <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> I was able to get a better angle on things through the wheel well. I got a crow bar in there without having to remove the tire, and bent the A/C line enough to clear the steering shaft. But I still have the same bindage <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" />. It feels like a U-joint. The steering shaft extension is bottomed out, but there is a good angle on the shaft at the upper joint (right after the oval section). I had some issues when installing the extension. I had to jack that side up over 5" to reconnect the shaft after installing the extension, and due to the position of the shaft (the wheels were slightly turned) I had to rotate the steering shaft to be able to match the angle, and engage the splines. The wheel ended up being off by 45^.

RodeoGuy, I just went through that thread you linked and that might do the trick. I'll have to give that a try tomorrow.

Thanks for the help guys <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Here are a few pics of the exhaust. As you will see, the down pipes are very tight. With the cutaway bellhousing, some verty tight bends are necessary to clear the angled flange on the 700R4.

Drivers side with the O2 sensor


Passenger side


You can see that they had to basically build a 90 on the pass side, and a pretty serious bend on the drivers side. Since I had them use 2" for each bank, which is larger than stock. That should help compensate for the severe bends.

and the cross over


They used the stock flanges, and built it in two pieces so it was removable. It turned out pretty good, but it wasn't cheap <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />