Background - had bum garage give me bum tc job. Re-did it myself... took me about 4 tries... But I think I have that all set now. I have been chasing an oil leak. Thought it was busted up and old oil pump, so I ordered up one of EB's finest and went to install it. Pump fits great, great value... would definitely recommend him.
However... One of the times that I brought my truck back to the shop they put the wrong bolt in the oil pump that sits right above the crankshaft. So, I bought another one from lowe's. When I put that one back in this time, it just started spinning. I pulled it out and I could see the material from the tc cover stuck in the threads. so put some FIPG and put it in as tight as it would let me and gave it a shot. No dice, leaks like before.
Question 1) Does everybody have issues like this or should I stick to computer programming?

Question 2) Can I tap that out? I have never tapped out anything... If I can, then I have to pull the cover off... then I might as well buy a new one...

Question 3) I have oil all underneath it. I need to drive 2 hours tonight down 95. Am I taking a big fire risk?

Question 4) Anybody want to buy a 94 pickup with no rust underneath!? (Due to extended oil leakage)

Question 5) there's a remote chance the the bolt that I bought from Lowe's is a hair shorter than the one that shoudl go in there. any chance that i could just buy the right one and it magically work? Even it just caught 2 or 3 threads?

Thanks all!

One option is to pick up a longer bolt, 5-10mm more might do the trick. Depends on which bolt it is and how deep the hole is, but I have used that trick a few times to pick up some fresh threads deeper in the hole. And use anti-sieze on the threads. If tapping, go up to the next larger size (metric or SAE). For example, for 8mm, use 3/8-24, for 10mm, use 7/16-20.

That bolt holds the oil pump housing tight against the o-ring that seals it to the engine block. As you found not tight equal big leak! It should be tightened to 9 foot lbs which is nice and snug on the hand built in torquer scale. Just like Windows you'll need to either reinstall it with a new cover or do it like linux and apply a bitchin' patch. Just like in the computer engineering world you'll find the the bitchin' patch cheaper!

To go the patchable route go to a tool store and buy a Helicoil thread repair kit for your Toyota 2.0. The size you'll need is M8x1.25. When using the tap in the kit put grease on it to catch any metal shavings. Use a wet/dry vac after to get it all.

You need to get a bolt of the right lenght. Too short and it might strip, too long and it will hit the chain tentioner. So go to a hardware store and buy M8x1.25 bolts of different lengths longer and shorter that you think are close to the size you need. If none of them are a perfect fit take one thats a little longer and use a grinder to make a custom bolt. Be sure to dress the threads up so they smoothly thread into the cover. You can thread a sacrificial nut on before cutting and this will do the trick when you thread it off. Good luck and may the force be with you.

How much oil leaks out over night or when you park the truck? If too much, I would be pulling over and checking the oil if you do the drive. You should be ok. Try the above mentioned ideas and if they don't work, then get a new cover. If you want a used one, I have some or try the for sale and wanted sections. Isn't working on your rig fun??
Good luck
Jeff

Awesome post... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Working on my truck is fun - but a real challenge!

I did end up driving it... And I think, that, maybe... the fipg helped after it dried.... and maybe the leak wasn't that bad. Though any leak at all is no longer acceptable. I need to run that truck for many more moons!

My rear pinion is still leaking from somewhere even after a new pinion shaft and seal. Guess I will have to figure something out there.

>>>*A helicoil is very easy to install, but remember that with the upper bolt hole that goes all the way through, the helicoil itself must be set in sealer, and then the bolt itself set in sealer.
We used to use RTV black back when we were repairing the covers....*EB

Glad the gasket maker is hold back the leak for now. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> As said that hole goes all the way through and having hardly any threads to seal there is a leak<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/barf.gif" alt="" />. Sounds like the oil pump seal is OK and you got the problem fixed for now. Good Luck with it. However that gasket maker might not hold up so keep you eye on it. At least you know where to look again if you see spots under your truck again. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

I stripped a head bolt, wanna trade problems? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/barf.gif" alt="" />

bring up an old topic... but it so very much worth paying $2.50 for the correct bolt from the dealership, assuming they can order it correctly. After 3 trips and 2 weeks, I finally got the right bolt. It came with sealer already on it. I compared it to the bolt I had in there and it was a good 6-7mm longer. It wasn't quite as long as a 40mm. There were just enough good threads in there to get just enough an amount of grip. I ordered many other bolts from the dealer previously and I very much regret not picking this one up as well.

On a side note, I bought some heli coils but I don't think that they would work as the depth of the cover is less than the depth of the heli coil. perhaps you could have started the heli coil in the oil pump but there is not that material there to work with it. And it makes it tough to get things tight with threads through both surfaces...

I also had "lost" #4 cylinder. I pulled the plugs and what I saw was abysmal. I had replaced them 5 years ago and hadn't put that many miles on these but I guess it was just the duration that did them in. runs a bit peppier now. I also broke down and paid $39 for a basic timing light since autozone wouldn't loan one out. Turns out I had it set at about 6 degrees, not 5 degrees BTDC. I set that right and it doesn't lug during acceleration now. I think I have either bad gas (in the truck) or a bad wire now because it started cutting out on me after 3500 rpms in 3rd 4th and 5th, cutting out worse as the gear goes higher. $27 for a set of wires from sparkplugs.com will hopefully do the trick.

It's still noisy up top. i have adjusted the valves I don't know how many times cold. I think I will try it warm next time to see if I can get them quiet. It still wants to leak a drop or so of oil but man I can definitely live with a drop less than a dime rather than a stain the size of a small dinner plate every time I drive it.

Just thought I would share some good news. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />