Lunch box locker refers to any locker that install in the stock carrier. Lockers that come with new upgraded carriers are more difficult for the average shade tree mechanic to install and require experience and special tools to install. So the tradeoff is cheaper installed cost for a lunch box locker versus installed strength for a locker that comes with a new carrier.

Where is it zackly that one would get the extra strength?
Big Jim <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />

A lunchbox replaces the spider gears in the stock diff. A normal locker like an ARB or detriot is it's own seperate carrier.

The term "lunch box" was started (I think) by Petersons mag, they said "you can install one of these lockers on your lunch break."
They are referring to lockers that replace spiders and side gears in the oe stock open carrier case and these use a "ramp loading" method of locking. All those little springs do is keep everything in place they do not provide locking force.
Ramp loading lockers use the strength of the stock carrier and cross pin for all of the load. Some sell hd cross pins.

THis type of locker can unlock mid load (as seen on vids) by slight throttle let up.

A detroit locker uses heavy springs for loading and tend to stay locked much more consistantly.

When you are new at wheeling with lockers, having a rear one first is best and having a quality one installed properly into a quality axle is the way to have fun with little chance of break down.

SD

PS if wasting money installing any locker into a dana 35 axle stop right now!!! You will be flushing that cash sooner or later.

SD, Thanks for the history on the terminology and pointing out the differences in pin strengths and locker lockup. I do need to regear for my bigger tires so I will probably see about a detroit if I can get it installed at the same time for not too much more. From what you said I think I'll have a more predictable locker.

Now that I've installed a rear LockRight/QuickLock (aprox. three hours), I understand the noises it is supposed to make. Don't noises mean friction and friction means wear? Any experiences on longevity on these units?
Also I found that my gears are not stock, the rear is 4.11 and the front is 4.10, is this good?

4.11 is the stock ratio on 4 cyl yjs. and probably feels underpowered with 33's.

The clicking noise is the same as the click in a wrachet wrench.. The wear (if any) would be minimal over 200,000 miles. If there are other noises please describe them. Also the clicking should only happen when in a turn on hard ground.
Big Jim <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />

My first attempt to head for the hills was unfortunately an attempt only. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" /> Something has gone seriously afoul! The initial test drive produced the normal ratcheting but that didn't last long. It immediatly quit unlocking on turns (the tires would scuff), then it started unlocking and sharply relocking going straight. It would randomly happen on either side, sending me from one side of the lane to the other, then back. Then it got to the point of leaving a stop light, BOTH sides would unlock and it felt like it was jumping up and down. I was only about a mile from home so I put it in 4high, took it easy and made it home.
The jeep and I are both currently cooling down. (presently here in Fresno, CA at 7:00pm it is 103. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/evil.gif" alt="" />)

I used to sell them both and the detroits have had many problems,they look the same to me but have had many calls and even some local customers with warranty issues . The lockright I have had none.
Suprising how good detroit lockers are and their quiklock fails so easy.