I have a '95 3.5 liter V6 4runner and it is blowing nothing but hot air. I was bought a 134A recharging unit from Auto Zone. but I have no idea where to connect the hose in order to charge the unit. Does anyone have a diagram available? Thanks for any help.

Before you charge it, you will want to figure out why it's not blowing cold air. Is the compressor kicking on? Is the freon really low? Your system is sealed, and the freon should never be low if the system is working properly. If you are low on freon, you have a leak somewhere, and if you go and add more, it will just leak out. You will want to add a dye to the freon and figure out where it's leaking. Otherwise it will just leak right out again and you'll be back where you were before.

I forget where the lines are for your truck. The FSM just has some generic pictures. Hopefully someone else can chime in with specifics.

Hey Adam, thanks for your response. I honestly do not know for sure if the compressor has kicked on. Yesterday I started the engine and saw that a/c pully was turning with no problem but when I had my friend, who sitting in the car, hit the switch I didn't hear any additional noises to indeicate the compressor activating. Should I start with the fuse? I can check that out. Hopefully there is no leak. How would I add dye to the freon. I am very unfamiliar with the a/c unit and you're right the FSM picture and instructions are not very clear. Thanks

You should definetly hear and feel the A/C compressor kick on. The pully will always be free wheeling/turning even with the compressor turned off. You have a magnetic clutch that will activate the compressor. Those can burn up and no longer work.

If there is a fuse, check it. You could have a bad a/c clutch.

I think they sell freon cans with the dye built into it. Then you use a blacklight to find the leaks.

Thanks Adam,
I went back outside to test the functionality of the a/c compressor by running the engine with the a/c switch off then turning it on and listening for a change in how the engine sounds at idle. It was very slight and not very noticable at all. I am certain that it should have been much more noticable. I think that your assessment is correct. So I guess it means another unit if thats the case, or can just the clutch be purchased?

The compressor will not activate if the refrigerant is too low to protect the system.

Try getting one of the kits with dye AND stop-leak in it... If it is a real small leak, you have no worries. If it is a big leak, you will easily find and repair it.

Thanks DRTDEVL,
I really appreciate the feedback. I will go ahead andrun dye and even stop leak into the systems Although it sounds like an easy step I need a diagram to see exactly where to connect the hose to run the dye through. I know how to locate the compressor, but I am unsure of where to plug the hose. My Haynes manual is not very clear, and only has instructions for removal and installation of the unit.

Well, there are at least 2 ports on all A/C systems, and my Toyota has only 2... The high and low pressure ports (the subsequent ones are for bleeding on some systems). I have a 22RE, so I am not sure where your ports are located.

Easy check: Where your A/C lines enter the compressor, both ports may be right above the compressor. The one with the skinny steel line all the way is the high pressure, the one that converts to a larger rubber hose is the low pressure. Add the refrigerant/dye/oil mixture to the low side. After a couple seconds, your compressor will engage (add when A/C is on and at idle). You will most likely have to add around 16 oz of mix, so get 2 small cans.

FYI. if you use stop-leak, and then decide to bring your truck to a shop for a/c work, TELL THEM. stop-leak will DESTROY a/c service equipment, and they are expensive.

find the problem, dont use stop leak.

if you charge an a/c system without evacuating it first, your chances of it working correctly are slim. there must be no air, moisture, or contaminants in the refrigerant.

honestly, if you want it to work right, your best bet is to bring it to a shop, or find someone with an a/c sevice machine.

just my $.02

you should really not use stop leak. Really bad for a/c systems and, or servive equip. But if you want to cheap it, you can ditch the 134 and use HC 12A. Works about 30% better then R12 or 134A junk. 7 bucks a can, and you don't need to pull a vacuum. I know I'll get flamed for it, but it does work, and you use 40% of the original charge volume. You also get better fuel mileage since the compressor is working less. But there is one drawback. It's flammable, and people are scared of it for this reason. But I seen no incidents where it's caused any fires and or explosions when used correctly. I run it in my 85 and I have 39 degree output air with it and it never loads the engine...