What brand do you have and I'll look it up?

However, IIRC the Axiom was 3.5L from 2002 to 2004; in 2004 it was a 3.5 'regular' or 3.5 Direct Injection. The 3.5 'normal' was the same one used in the Vehicross (and trooper?). Your signature says 2002; I believe the 3.5 DI was 2004 only.

But a lead is a lead.

According to what I saw on various hitch applications lists, something underneath in the rear end is different for the 3.5L direct injection engine.

I talked to Merlin at St Charles Isuzu (1-800-727-8066). The Isuzu hitch $256.20 with free shipping. I bought another $150 worth of accessories to pay for his time <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />

He didn't see a part # difference betweent the 'regular' and "DI" Rodeo's. That gives me a little more confidence--the other hitch makers might not have had the specs and took a "better safe than sorry." But Merlin also said that he can't promise that--Isuzu might have a different mounting pattern or some sort of adapter that comes with.

Someone have a picture of a 2002-2004 Isuzu tow package? I'd like to see what it looks like. Merlin had the catalog, but he said it only had a tiny picture in it and he couldn't tell much.

A few pictures of the rear end would make me happy. The RODEO rear end, with the tow bar. (Because I've been on the board long enough to know you jokers.)

Thanks to anyone who can do it.

How about a pic of my rear end after being in a rodeo? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> (I used to ride bulls when I was young and stupid).

If it helps any I can send you pics of the mounts on my '99. Curt Mfg says its the same for 98-04, but never know.

I appreciate the offer, but my goal is to see what the Isuzu-built Rodeo tow bar looks like.

This post was continued here, in "request for Isuzu receiver hitch pictures" which ironicly answered my question in this post, if the 3.5 engine and the 3.5 DI engine have the same tow bar mounting points.

http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=906590

In short, yes--with a little rubbing on the muffler that might exist in either engine configuration.

We got the draw-tite (sp?). It rubs the rear silencer.

I'm having to grind off a bit of the right mount. It's no big thing, but a pain. I wish I would have known BEFORE I bolted it up.

Oh well. IF my wife bugs me about that, she'll forget about the price of the tires and wheels I got for Stubig.

I bougth mine from a local shop called the Hitch Depot. I do not know the maker and there are no other stickers on the hitch except for the capacity sticker. You are correct that the DI Axiom was not produced until 2004.

I have received the receiver hitch and tried to install it. Just a few minutes my eye. I need help/advice!

All pictures small to aid loading speed.

I opened the box, was very happy to see a large step-pad. Now I can reach the top of the vehicle!


I followed the installation instructions--it's just six bolts. But it's specific that the passentger side hanger bolt (goes into that vertical plate) is first, and then the driver's side bolt, then back to the passenger again--and all finger tight (until all six bolts are in; the last three pass through holes and into supplied nuts).

They're fine thread bolts (relatively--I saw Randii's post!) and I finally dropped the bar, cleaned the holes, and tried screwing them in without juggling the bar. They were still hard to get started. No wonder I couldn't get them to fit grunting on my back, holding the bar up with one hand and one leg.

The bolt pattern make a lot of sense--until I tried to get bolt #2 in. The driver's side would not even come close to lining up. I tried ignoring instructions and working the driver's side first (thus the higher-up scuff marks). No luck.

I'm imagining the 10-minute install instructions is for people who's receiver hitch slides into place. Not on the 3.5 DI version. It was past snug.

I reinstalled the passenger side hanger bolt loose as I could get it, and working alone, on my back, holding a 45 lb bar over my face wasn't easy. I eventually jammed it into place.


After hours of messing around, holding it up with my leg while banging with a cloth-covered hammer, I finally figured out what to do: Stop worrying about it so much and get a bigger hammer. Specifically, my rear end. I put the jack under the receiver bar, jacked it up until the back end of the vehicle was lifting up, then jumped up and down in the cargo area. It worked, an inch at a time. If I deformed that metal plate, I don't think it really matters.


That brings me to why I need help. I have all the bolts in, and although you have three slotted nuts/bolts, the other three anchors mean that thereÆs only one way for the receiver hitch to fit. They're not adjustment slots; they're "slop slots."

Now that I mounted the receiver in the only way I can see it mounting, it seems to be a little crooked. Anyone else with any year and any hitch have this problem? Any suggestions on what I could do? Otherwise, I'm just not going to worry about it. I'd just like to hear someone else say, "Mine is a little crooked, too."

As one of those evil mechanical engineer types, here's my advice: Get a BFH, large lever bar, large vice, come-along winch gear, whatever it takes and bend that hitch into shape. I would suggest bending the hitch and not the frame though. A bit of heating may help too. You are not going to loose any significant strength bending it into shape, may even work harden it a little bit. The important thing is to have the hitch ball straight up and down, regardless of any other fitment issues.

I have a U-haul receiver because it was half the cost of the Isuzu one, and while it has taken a bit of clearance away from the back decent angle, it is also a really tough piece of metal that has probable prevented me from tearing off my rear bumper a couple of times off road.

Looked into the trailer wiring yet? I have two items from U-haul that I used on my 95.5, which has a trailer wire connection on the factory harness. (The U-haul guy didn't know that and was about to start splicing wires before I stopped him). Anyway, I have one bracket mounted plug that has a combo 4-way flat and U-haul type individual bullet connectors, and I have a 7-way round connector bracket mounted, which plugs into the 4-way flat. The 4-way flat is for my boat trailer, the 7-way round is for my tent trailer, and the U-haul connector is for when I rent their utility trailers to haul stuff to the dump. The largest reason I keep my Rodeo is to haul trailers, and its done a fantastic job over the last 168K miles...

Good luck!

I finished up mounting the receiver and connecting the wiring.

I couldn't get the long, self-tapping screws into the receiver to hold the trailer wiring up on the receiver hitch. I was stripping out the screw heads trying to put them in. I have the wiring plug mounted up internally to the body with zip ties, I can just slide it out when I need it.

Getting the wiring plugged in at the top was another matter. In case anyone wants to use the stock rodeo trailer light wiring harness, here's where I found it....sort of where the instructions say, but not in anyway you can get to it easily.

The directions don't mention two compartments (as you reach up). You can tell there's two compartments--you can see the shadow that forms the larger compartment that you reach into, big enough for my fist. The one you have to reach into for the plugs are barely big enough for your fingers.



And if you don't know what a DJM is, just ask Randii. If he has to click this link, he owes me a beer.