This is my first engine rebuild. Is it OK to lube up the back of the bearing inserts on the crank and the connecting rods? Someone mentioned an increased chance the bearings will spin out. I need a consensus.

Thanks,
Dean

You only lube the front face of the bearings (facing the crankshaft) period. The mounting surfaces of the block, main caps, rods and rod caps should be clean and dry. Apply enough assembly lube to protect the rotating assembly but dont go overboard so that its spooging out the sides in great quantity when torquing down the caps.

~Darin <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/baby.gif" alt="" />

Crap! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" /> Fortunatly I only got as far as the crank shaft and #1 piston. Still...

Thanks for the help,
Dean

really isn't any point in putting the goop on the back sides, they don't move anyway. i do use a gob of grease on the back side of the thrust washers to hold them in place while i install the crank and 3rd main cap though.

and i'm opposite to darin's technique when it comes to assembly lube -- i slather that stuff on there! i'm pretty fond of the federal mogul green KY type stuff that comes in the little bottle myself.

on the subject....does anyone have any good tecniques on getting the rod caps off....i'mm having a hellacious time with #3

To remove the rod caps lightly tap on the rod bolt to force the rod away from the rod journal. I. leave the nut on while doing this so the rod bolt won't scratch the crankshaft.

wow....thanks man...i can't believe i havent thought of that.... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" />

yea use the wooden part of the handle if you have a rubber mallet and use plenty of lube ,if it oozes out thats just extra to get slung around during starting.DO NOT put any on the backsides ,like was said before clean and dry .

>>>*I have this old service manual, it has engine models out of the 20's and 40's.

There is a line in there that says to completely dip the entire bearing shell in oil before installing to make sure that it slips in without "marring".

I always got a kick out of that.

Of course there is no logical reason to oil the backside of a bearing shell, but it also would cause no harm, excess would just squeeze out.

On the dipper style bearings which are poured and fitted, it states to use a "suitable tool such as a sharp knife" to scrape the excess material until it can be "slid sideways freely by hand after tightening the retention nut."

I did exactly that with my pocket knife when redoing the rods on my Dad's 1937 Chevy 10 ton truck, and old 216.5 Cubic inch inline six.

The lube we used was axle grease....*LOL**....*EB

That was one way I was taught, the other way was to "fit" the rod caps, in other words "mill" the rod cap-mating surface on a flat surface and a sheet of "crocus cloth". One rebuild we did not have any assembly lube so we went into the kitchen and grabbed the Crisco. Seemed to work, the engine stayed together for many miles!!! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Hey EB did you ever use a piece of leather for a rod/main bearing. My Grandpa did on his Model A!!!!!!!