Good to know, Jake. I just received my gauge....after looking in the cab and the lack of vertical places I think I will mount it on the front end of the center console....in front of the auto shifter lever. That means I have to visit Pep Boys for a mount and Ace Hardware for a steel 1/8" NPT coupler to weld into the pan. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

puds- I'm doing my tranny temp gauge install now....this is something that you should have if you pull any kind of weight. It's really hot today....so hot....how hot is it?....hot enough to cause paint cans to "pop!!"....see pics....more to come soon.


I wanted more working room and also needed to clean the carpet....so I took some easy stuff out.....

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That connector assembly near the flashlight is for the seat belt light that flashes too much.....

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I cut it out....

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It was real easy to remove the plastic console covers. It really was.

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The purple and grey wires will go to the sensor that will screw into the tranny pan....I chose the rear right corner to run the wire thru a small slice in the rubber boot.

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I drilled the pilot hole here....I probably should have drilled a little higher to make absolutely sure the sensor is in the oil bath.

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I was in the process of touching up the tranny pan with some black paint.....it was hot in the garage and as I was shaking the can I heard this POP! and then saw this inverted bulge This happened "in the shade" <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />

The entire center shaft on mine is a light green. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

here ya go:
gauge pod mounts

a picture of gaugepod mounted in a taco from their site

The pods look nice. I went to Pepboys and bought a black universal 2" holder for $20.......2 pics below. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Looking good Zuk!

I bought an AutoMeter gage that I mounted just below the dash. The only catch was I had to rotate the diagnostic plug sideways so it would still be accessible. Autometer suggests brazing a brass bushing into the pan. This seamed like too much of a hassle, so I found a B&M adapter which bolts on (# 80250ùabout $8 at Checker) (or Hayden sells the same thingùbut might be harder to find). You still have to drill a hole, but this one has been leak free for four years.



B&M # 80250 adapter


And when mounted in the pan

B&M # 80250 adapter


I like that adapter! I never even thought such a coupler was available. I had to resort to drilling a hole and migging the steel 1/8" NPT coupler to the steel pan. I had to be careful and weld thoroughly enough to prevent leaks. I also bought that fancy Toyota pink "RTV" stuff directly from the dealer($20) and re-sealed the tranny pan same as the factory did. That was 'interesting' try to break the pan loose....dam good glue.

I've driven it a couple times since the install....the temp gauge has reached 162 degrees driving around town. I get it reaches over 180 on the highway. This is without the soon to be added tranny cooler.

The sealers are way better than gaskets, but it does make them interesting to remove. I've been using Permatex "The Right Stuff"...I agree, it's more like a glue than silicone <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

I've seen my gage go to 210 degrees wheeling in sand with the a/c on. I wonder how high it would be without a cooler <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shame.gif" alt="" />

Update.....

I had a chance to drop the tranny pan....change the tranny filter...install the temp gauge. I think that because the front wheels were on those 8" tall drive up ramps that quite abit of the red fluid drained out....lots more came out when I removed the filter.
It's interesting that the thick factory owners manual that was in the glovebox made no mention of the procedure for draining/re-filling the tranny. So I did it just like I did 3 previous automatics(2 Jeeps and a Yota)....I warmed it up and ran the shifter thru R-N-D-2-L and back up to neutral. With the engine idling and still in neutral(and not on the drive-up ramps), I checked the level. I could see 2 marks near the bottom of the stick with COOL between them....Farther up I saw 2 more notches with HOT between them. It took 6.5 quarts to get the level in the HOT marks. Wow. More than I thought it would take.

I also had a chance to drive it on short trips to work and other places and noted the temp gauge would slowly work it's way up to 160 degrees after about 15 minutes of driving in 112 degree Arizona weather....it made it to 180 once. Now this is driving easy around town at 40~45 mph. The highway should be a little over 180 before it stabilizes with the 180 degree temp of the radiator water that the coils are located in. This is exactly why I want to install the aftermaket cooler up front right behind the grill....but not until November when it cools.

I started thinking about the 6.5 quarts.....engine is still warm 20 minutes later.....so I re-checked the dipstick without the engine running(just like you would the regular engine oil) and found the level shot up real high way above the HOT notches. I drained 1 qt and now it's back in the zone. So that looks like 5.5 quarts with a filter change based on my numbers.

So who knows for sure the proper method of checking a Taco auto fluid level?

Doh...never mind....found this http://www.deserted1.com/FSM/Repair_Manual/03tacoma/ma/undhoo/genmai.pdf

now that I am armed with the right info....let me check again <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cyclops.gif" alt="" />

OK....with the rig in PARK.....oil almost up to temp....6 qts...maybe a little more. FYI. I'll let the thread die now since it is getting off topic and start a new Post when I find out more interesting info. ZUK out.