Could be a fuel filter as well. If you are not getting a pressured system, either pump is not working right or something is blocking it from getting to the engine. That inline unit may be having fits. Also could be an intermittent grounding problem with the pump. Easiest way to check is wait until you have the problem, disconnect fuel line, put a catch can at the disconnect and turn on the ignition. Should hear the pump buzzing and you should see gas spitting into the catch can at a high rate of flow. Be sure to take care with the obvious burn-down-the-truck issues. Have someone help you with the check.

A lot of guys here in salt land have problems at about 10 years vehicle age due to rotting out tops of gas tanks, specifically at the fitting for the pump and sending unit. Not unusual to see the wiring got to pot as well as the metal. Bad grounds can really raise havoc.

Hmm. How have you determined the belts are turning when you were turning the ignition key? If you're hearing the engine turning over on the starter motor with the normal Rrr-rrr-rrr sound, then yes the starter motor is indeed working. If you were hearing a "click", or a "clickity-click-click-click" sound, the engine is not turning over and you've got a problem with the starter circuit.

Since you later seem to say the engine is indeed turning over on the starter motor, I'll go with that presumption. Which makes the diagnosis much more difficult.

The trouble with hunting one of these down is as soon as it starts, you can't locate it. You can only hunt these sort of things down when the engine will not run.

There's two areas to search, ignition and fuel supply. You can check the ignition readily enough when it won't start. Just pull a plug line and check for spark. If you've got spark and the engine still refuses to run, you can be pretty sure it's in the fuel supply side.

Almost certainly it's going to be an electrical failure. You need the wiring diagram to chase this down with. Somewhere in a controlling circuit electricity isn't making its way through the path. It can be a dirty contact (common), lose connection, corrosion, chaifed wire, etc. But you need to know where you're looking to find it.

Well, I have not been able to duplicate the failure, and it sounds like the fuel pump is coming on right away. The truck is due for a 120K tune up in about a month, and I will ask about replacing the fuel pump.

First HI Y'LL! I'm back!!!
(yes, still have the T...180K on her and yes, never sold it...still need it occasionally) been thinking of new seatbelts, takin her in for the recall-relay rod, and replacing the stereo. Needs new tires next Spring (33" duelers ain't cheap...)

Second, the starter will seize and the relay will make click noise. To see if its the starter, take a ballpeen hammer and (not too hard) whack the starter housing (might have a dead spot). If after a good tap, then it starts, you may need to rebuild the starter (cheaper than new one, this I know). Check 4x4wire for info.

Oh, and check for cracked spark wires. When is last time you replaced the loom and 3 coils? (if at all) And plugs?

However, an issue I have since 170K miles is the fuel line. If my T is sitting undriven for a week or more, I have to turn the key to On but not crank...wait about 15 secs...then crank and she starts right up. Could be fuel evap in the lines? Or water condensating after sitting unused. I dunno. I should put some drygas in. But then, I wondered about the fuel pump. It's in the tank, right? So...what a hassle.

Anyway, starts up everyday if used so. And I do recommend the RedTop over other batteries...expensive...yeah, but since I had one for 72 months and it cranked everytime...

PS...I'll say hi to Harliv if anyone asks. I stay in touch, but he sold off his T sometime ago.

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If it was hot and you are not maintaining the required pressure in the fuel rail the gas in there vaporizes more easily while it sat and can cause a vapor lock of sorts. There is a pressure regulator in the rail that controls that. A leaky injector or poor fuel pump pressure would do the same thing. That is, if it is a fuel related problem.

whoo hooo! Glad to hear you still have the t! I got a new stereo from crutchfield for my truck, and it was even easy for me (who hates all things electrical) to install. Great support.

My truck has not had a problem starting since that weird snafu. I am taking it in for a REALLY expensive 120K tuneup in about one month...

I am using an orange top optima and love it. Have done some stoopid stuff to the battery and it still is starting every time.

When I wheeled the truck around to the back of the store, I pretty much put the truck in gear, and idled to the back of the building. At this point I would bet it was vapor lock.

I also would bet that it is going to be two more weeks till I get a small box containing the rest of the hardware I need to put in the last window. ask me if I am bitter about that one.

what is involved in the 120k tuneup??? how much???

Lets see, my goal is to set myself up for an easy next 60K miles so, at 120K the dealer is going to do the following:

Timing belt
New Plugs
replace coolant
drain and fill diffs
drain and fill transfer case
intake cleaning
Repack front bearings
lots of lubing and inspecting of stuff as well.


I am going to add

replace accessory belts
replace radiator hoses
replace thermostat
replace water pump
(all of these may need to be moved or are right there when doing a timing belt)

trans fluid exchange
flush coolant system
flush oil system
flush brake system
(possible replace wires)
I am going to be have the trans, diffs, transfer case filled with synthetic

I would not be surprised if I need another set of front rotors. (I will be getting a good deal on those)

i see...only thing left for me on that list is radiator hoses...all of which are in great shape...

repacked the front bearings while i had the rotors off for my suspension system...just did a drain and fill on the tranny...im worried about valve shimming when the time comes <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/zombie.gif" alt="" />