Wow! Thanks for all the input!

I like things to work right, and this has been bugging me for awhile but I'm just now getting around to tackling it. My daughter is going to college in about 30 days,and I'm planning on making this my daily driver for awhile.

So far, I've found no damage to the wiring anywhere. The light circuit involves the turn switch, the hazard switch, and the stop light switch. I found that the hazard was not working properly. Only three lights were flashing. Took it apart cleaned all the corrosion out of it and now the hazards work fine.

At the cruise module I checked the voltage at the wires from the brake switch and the switch is working correctly. I was using a scope, and when I brought the range down, I found I was getting an ac ripple in the system. Almost 1 volt peak to peak. And I've been watching the volt meter more closely to, at a stop ac on in drive, the voltmeter will drop to quite as bit below 12 volts.

Anyway, I've got a new flasher in my other raider, I plan on swapping them tomorrow and taking a closer look at the charging system. I don't really think that it's affecting the cruise, but I'm giving it a higher priority right now.

Just for the heck of it, run an impedence test on the tail light wiring, it could be grounding out even though a visual inspection shows no evidence.

Frank, the 89 has a lockup converter. The 87 has a Starion cruise system partially installed, but I never got the vacuum pump to work, and since there's no manifold vac at cruise in the TRaider (I get about 1-2 psi of boost at 80 level cruise), the vac actuator on that system won't work, and you have to find room for a vac reservoir, vac pump, about 4 valves, a couple of vac switches, ....

I may give up and install an aftermarket system, but the Starion Cruise control stalk bolted in so nice to the column, with only very minor notching of the column cover.

The fsm shows diagnostic codes for the cause of cruise cancel which is stored until power off. Read the leftmost diagnostic terminal pair, connector up. page 14-119 of the 89fsm in the engine controls pdf.

Didn't have as much time as I'd hoped today. Did swap the flasher though, turn signals work great now. I got a super duper one from O'Reilly's ($9.00). Is generic ok or will it be short lived? Shouild I order a Mitsu one?

Generic should be fine. I carry a couple. One "heavy duty flasher" for when I have the trailer hooked up (slows down the blink frequency), and one "normal" flasher.

BTW, a cancel code of anything but 16 (cancel signal received - check brake switch, cruise on switch for intermittent, and wiring to/from) means you have a bad component in the cruise system. To read the codes with a voltmeter, tap the two terminals noted above, and look for a pattern like one long bleep, followed by one to 6 short blips. O'scope should make that easy.

Thanks to everyone for the help. With the turn signals working the cruise is going on the back burner. I've just got too much going on right now. My oldest (17) is going to college in 3 weeks and I've no time to spare right now.

Thanks again,

Dave

That's no excuse. You can't leave us hanging like that. Buy him/her a map, a box of contraceptives, and a hangover cure and get back to work.

I had this same problem on my first '89 Montero. I put up with it for about a year and then the hazard switch stopped working. This caused problems for my turn signals as well. I replaced the hazard switch with a brand new one from the Mitsu dealer. Once I did this, the turn signals and hazard were fixed and I never had a problem with the cruise shutting off with the turn signals.

It's not a cheap fix, though. I think I remember paying around $60 for the hazard switch since it is more than a switch...

Pmontero

P.S. - Hey Eddy, how's Ole Yeller running? I haven't seen it cruising around Atlanta lately...

Powell, long time no talk. got to have lunch one of these days. John's wife stole the Shogun from him, apparently for good.

I wondered about the hazard switch, since a bad one kills so many lights. May want to take it out, take it apart (don't lose the spring and stuff as it comes apart) and clean the electrical contacts inside, as most of them seem to fail from corrosion. Mine has not done that trick since I cleaned my haz switch as a PM.

Eddy,

Let me know when you're on the south side or by Galleria during the week. (I'm working up there now) Tell John to go by Bass Pro Shops and pick up some Red Fox Scent. Put some on a rag in a plastic ziplock baggie and hide it under the driver's seat. The truck should be his again after the next time she drives it.

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Pmontero