Try the test connector. It'll make the fuel pump come on with the ignition. It is easy to do and costs nothing to try. You'll be able to hear the pump running and hear the "hiss" of the FPR regulating the fuel pressure. You can also follow the FSM tests which involve pinching the FPR return line to feel for a pressure change and you can also pull a vacuum on the FPR vacuum line to get the fuel pressure to change (sound will change). Normally the pump will come on when starting, assuming your ignition switch and the CO relay are working 100%. But sometimes that is not the case and the test jumper will make sure the pump is running while starting.

WELL,
After a night of trouble-some hardware shopping at the local hardware stores I was finally able to run a fuel pressure test. I know that my fuel pump is fine because I took out the FPR and inserted a coupling that attached to the gauge. I figured out that if I turn on the ignition without pressing in the clutch I could here the pump whisle. The connection wasn't very good thus resulting in fuel leaks, but I got the reading that I needed and that the pump was capable of suppling 60+psi.

I put the regulator back on and hooked everything back up, thinking that the regulator might be stuck open I pinched the hose and tried starting the truck that way. Still no luck, just the initial put-pop-puttity-put. So I conclude that there is suffecient pressure in the line and that the pump and regulator are working fine.

I did however undo the air intake hose from the T-body and spray starting fluid up the intake manifold, keeping the MAF sensor hooked up. It ran as long as I sprayed. Is this normal? I thought that It wouldn't run as soon as that hose came off, no matter if the sensor is hooked up or not. Any comments on this? And how do I test the MAF to make sure it's good?

Also, How do you test the injectors to make sure that they are fireing correctly, or even getting a signal? When it comes to electrial stuff I'm not so smart so Elaborate! I have a Diagnostic terminal that is next to the battery/engine bay fuses. Other than that I won't know what you are taking about.

Thanks in advace!
GOI

P.S. My header arrived today, looks awsome! Can't wait for the truck to run So I can install it! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Well, the FSM outlines a procedure, but I've never tried it. Looks to be a PITA. I sent my injectors to Witch Hunter for cleaning & testing (sent USPS priority on a Sat & got back here all clean & pretty on Tue or Wed). I consider it $60 well spent, if only for piece of mind. Some folks have used other services with good results as well.

That said, *if* the engine was running before you took it down to install the rebuild, then I'd be looking for something hooked up wrong. Most of the wireing connectors can only go in one place (well, unless you use considerable force <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> ), so vacuum plumbing is where I'd start looking.

Did you remove the TPS before cleaning the throttle body? If so did you adjust it properly? If you didn't remove it, better test it, it's been reported in here that you can mess them up if you don't remove them before cleaning.

Dave

GREAT POINTS,
Thanks the the advice to send the injectors off, That was already done before I installed them. I sent them to Affordible-Fuel-Injection, for about $60.00 they cleaned and inspected them, and they tested out perfect. No I didn't remove the TPS before it went for cleaning. What does it control, because if I spray enough starting fluid down the T-body and push on the accelorator the motor will rev up and down with the gas peddel? I also don't know how to test any of these sensors to see if they are working correctly. I don't think it is a vacume line because it runs fine with Starter fluid. Though a vacume line could of gotten mixed up with one that controls the fuel, but there is only one that I know of and it goes to the Fuel Pressure Regulator, and the other end goes to the thing on the valve cover I thinks it's for the idel or something (it's got electrical connections).

GOI

Did you hook up the ground wire on the intake? It supplies the ground for your injectors to fire.

I'm sure I did, I'll take another look just to make sure. Thanks for the suggestion! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

That's a question that makes this site GREAT! You are looking for 3 wires that go to one ground connection. Almost always overlooked. I'll put a dollar bet that DRTDEVL is absolutely correct. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />
Staceman

Does anybody have a picture of this? Am I looking for 3 seperate wires that go to the same ground or am I looking for a 3 wire bundle that goes to one ground or 3 wires 3 grounds? Very much confused <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

you can see it in between the intake runners at the lower left of this pic....

THANKS for the picture!
Yes, that ground wire is attached. I moved it to another bolt on the Intake Manifold and I get the same result. I wiggled all of the wires around to see if something came loose, but found nothing and no improvement.

Any other Idea's? I'm getting frustrated! I know it is something simple that I must of overlooked, but I just can't figure it out.