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2100 problems help!!!!
#739912
07/24/06 08:33 PM
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 23
OP
Need a Spot
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alright, got a 2100 with 1.14 jets been running fine up and down the road for awhile now, took my jeep with me camping to the hills and i started stalling out heading up the forest roads. now we were only about 5000 above sea level so i adjusted the mix alittle bit but continue to stall out and have major loss of power and blows a lot of black smoke bad even when got back to seattle area still blowing black smoke...wtf??? do i need to drop down a jet size or two or am i looking at a rebuild??? head lots of great stuff about this carb but it let me down big time for the first time taking it out damn thing just sat at camp <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/barf.gif" alt="" /> what a crying shame did not even get to wheel can anyone help me out here with this thing <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />
------------------------------------------------------------ 1980 CJ5 w/ 1976 258 .30 over 2100 4" Tuff Country 35" M/T and some other good stuff
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Re: 2100 problems help!!!!
[Re: mudslinger258]
#739913
07/24/06 09:40 PM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7,768
Web Wheeler
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Either the choke is stuck partly CLOSED or the float setting got changed when hitting a bump in the road... Look at the thing and if the choke is all the way OPEN then take the top off and readadjust the float downwards a little. Big Jim <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />
professional bovine relocation specialist
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Re: 2100 problems help!!!!
[Re: BigJim]
#739914
07/25/06 06:41 AM
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 23
OP
Need a Spot
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ok I looked at the choke and its open and working just fine with the pull cable and cycles with no problem, now go ahead and slap me here but I could rebuild a Holley asleep and hogged tied and I assume to remove the top of the 2100 its just the 4 flat head screws there by the bowl and front top of the carb, and how do you adjust the bowl on this thing I mean I figure its just like any other carb but if you look straight down on this carb there is a big flat head screw in there by the float now is that to adjust or is is a screen type filter (keep in mind I have not touched anything yet want all my ducks in a row before i f*ck this up hahahaha) well i'll check back in the morning and see what needs to get done. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/drunk.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/barf.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/zombie.gif" alt="" />
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Re: 2100 problems help!!!!
[Re: mudslinger258]
#739915
07/25/06 02:10 PM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7,768
Web Wheeler
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The thing to do with the float is to simply BEND the hanger a little.. What I do and do NOT advise is to hold the float hanger in place and have someone crank the engine till the float bowl fills up and then I can see where the actual level of the fuel REALLY is. If you do not do a "hands-on" while cranking the float assembly will shoot out of place and gasoline will go everywhere not to mention the parts shooting into the manifold... There is one other thing to check in that carb. All of them I have ever seen had a small RED RUBBER valve for the pump system... You may be having a pump problem! Look closely at that while you are in there. Also If you are doing a KIT REBUILD, the only parts I ever use are the needle/seat. the PUMP and maybe a new gasket. If the carb was running good before suddenly going bad then only ONE thing is wrong with it and it does not need all the bits and pieces of the kit. Big Jim <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />
professional bovine relocation specialist
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