The check engine light only indicates an emissions-related problem. You could have zero oil pressure and it would not illuminate. Many people are under the misconception that the check engine light comes on with any problem with the engine. Not true.

As for the low oil pressure light, they typically come on at somewhere between 3 and 5 PSI. My dad fried a 335HP 390 once when an oil pump failed and the light didn't come on until it was too late.

Bearings, lots of bearings. And, probably the journals that ride upon them. Good luck.

Steve, did you replace (or remember to install) the rubber gasket that goes around the top of the pickup tube where it goes into the block?

Michael

yep i did.

as for the bearings, can you be more specific? am i looking at the head or bottom end?

There are no bearings in the top end, but you can wipe out cam journals and lobes. Depending upon the failure, maybe the head was starved first and you got away with it. As for the bottom end, we are talking crank and rod bearings. Possibly pins. It all depends and you won't know until you do a bit of tear down.

It will also depend upon the failure. Sudden or chronic (i.e., high enough to work, but not enough to really supply the engine, finally ending in complete failure). Either way, it is not pretty.

Good Luck,
Michael

STEVE MICHAEL IS RIGHT HERE , YOU NEED TO GO AHEAD AND PULL THE LOWER OIL PAN AN TAKE A LOOK , THE MAIN CRANKCASE OR OIL PAN AS IT IS CALLED ISN,T NECCESSARY , IT IS MUCH QUICKER THAN THE OIL PUMP ANYWAY, GET A GOOD LOOK AT THE OIL PMP PICKUP AND LOOK FOR PIECES OF BEARING MATERIEL, I AM WONDERING IF MAYBE YOU LOST THE THRUST BEARINGS AND THE GRINDING IS THE CRANKSHAFT IS MOVING FORWARD WHEN THE CLUTCH IS DEPRESSED, THIS WILL DEFINATELY HAVE AN EFFECT ON THE IDEL OF THE ENG IT WILL SLOW WAY DOWN AND ALL MOST STALL, LOWER PAN WOULD BE MY FIRST STEP IF YOU HAVENT ALLREADY CHEDCKED THIS FAR JERRY

Well, if I did major damage to the lower end of the engine, I guess I should have my other block rebuilt and start over.

I guess this time I will make sure the oil pump is working before I put it all together, and get an actual oil pressure gauge, instead of relying on the oil pressure light.

And it shouldnÆt take me near as long to put it all back together the second time around.

Just not sure if I should get a new head or reuse the one I have on it now.

Any of your rigs have working 4WD yet? Let's go wheelin' this fall, when it's cooler. Call TXCO Rig and see if he's still alive. You guys can talk engines, 'cause I think his is jacked up too. Trooper? Sammy? Amigo? Whichever one, makes no difference, the trails are calling your name... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/zombie.gif" alt="" />

Steve, is there an air conditionor on that thing?

And, not trying to call you out...but

Did you pop the hood, and verify where the noise was coming from, like with a mechanics stethoscope(screwdriver, peice of wood, etc)?

I am asking, becuase I have had problems in teh front accessories(pulies), bearing locking up, clutch in teh a/c compressor, etc, and caused me all kinda noises, and odd running.

Not touching the oil pump thing though, as I have yet to tear apart one of the isuzu 4 bangers.

But, usually, we prime the oil pump when an engine is re-assembled, and VERIFY it has pressure, before it is run for the first time...

Chase

well i know it has to be the oil pump cuz i can't get any oil to come up into the head when i spin it.

Steve, as for wheeling; nope i don't have any rigs with 4x4. actulay i only have one rig thats running and it looks like it going to give up the ghost really soon. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

I wonder... you still using Fram oil filters ? ? ?