Well on day 2 of the driving it and so far so good. I need to reset my idle, since for some reason it is a bit high (1500RPMs). Other than that nothing to complain. I think I might have fixed it.

When swapping Ignition switches..How does that work? Is the tumbler/key assembly seperate from the switch? Otherwise you would have a key for ignition and a key for the doors.

The switchgear is separate from the lock cylinder.

Randii

THE CHECK ENG LITE IN AND OF ITSELF , SHOLUDN,T KEEP THE ENG FROM RUNNING , AS IT IS IN A SERIES CIRCUIT FROM FUSE NO 13 WITH CURRENT GOING THRU THE LAMP AND THE LAMP
BEING GROUNDED BY THE ECM ,, IN A KEY ON ENG OFF SITUATION, THE ECM IS AT THE SAME TIME GETTING PWR FROM ANOTHER SOURCE SPECIFICALLY THRU THE MAIN RELAY ,AT THIS POINT THE CEL LAMP IS JUST AN INDICATOR THAT THE ECM IS RECEIVING POWER , NOW WHEN THE ENG STARTS THE ECM IMMEDIATELY UNGROUNDS THE ONE WIRE FROM THE CEL AND OF COURSE THE LAMP GOES OUT , ACTUALLY SINCE 1988 WHEN THESE SYSTEMS CAME OUT I DON,T RECALL EVERY SEEING A CEL LAMP BURNED OUT , BUT I AM SURE THEY HAVE AT SOME TIME OR THE OTHER ,ALLSO I DON,T RECALL THAT THE LAMP BEING OUT WOULD CAUSE A NO START BY ITSELF , BY THE WIRING DIAGRAMS IT SHOULD NOT, HOWEVER THE ONLY SURE FIRE WAY OF KNOWING IS TO OF COURSE TAKE OUT THE BULB AND SEE IF IT STARTS , THERE IS A SIMPLE PROCEDURE IN THE SHOP MANUAL THAT SAYS IF THE LAMP DOES NOT LITE, CHECK THE MAIN RELAY ,THE FUSE 13 THEN THE LAMP AND FINALLY THE ECM ,HOPE THIS HELPS SOME AND THAT THE MAIN RELAY WAS YOUR PROB, NOT UNCOMMON TO SEE THOSE RELAYS GET FUNNY ACTING JERRY

I had the CEL go out in my Trooper. It didn't stop the engine from starting.

THANKS JLEMOND for the explanation...


hope everything's still working good (sorry about briefly <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" /> hijacking your thread )

bc