Hey,

I finally past smog and now want to get the 85 Runner mechanically sound before working on the interior and body. To make a long story short, my son rolled my truck about 1.5 years ago and I am trying to bring it back to life. I paid a local body shop cash to put a windshield on it so I could drive it around. Had a friend install some Detroit lockers and put some 33 muds on her. Engine sounds good but the truck is pulling to the right. I have read some threads but some of the talk is over my head. I had always thought that with a solid front axle, I would not need alignment. From reading a few threads looks like it can. Is this something I just bring into the shop and ask for an alignment? On a second note, I am getting a sharp sound from underneath the truck when I release the clutch and go into first gear. Sometimes I get no sound but most times I will. Loudness will vary. I don't think it is internal because the sharpness of the sound. Could this be the U-Joint. Any help would be great.

You can align a solid front axle. Toe in is easy:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/AxleTech/index.shtml#Alignment

You might have a shop check the caster and camber to see if that is within factory specs.

You can check the u-joints and pinion/t-case flanges for play by hand, you should feel none.

I tried your way rodger, it drives better but I still get a squeel from the inside front going around corners. maybe that is the rear locker pushing it straight?

also check your air pressure in your tires, 5 psi makes a big difference with lockers.

for a test, just let the air down to around 20 on the other side of the truck from the way it is pulling and see if it pulls the other way.

your sound,,, sure sounds like a ujoint to me, grease them and look to see that the grease comes out past all 4 seals, if not you may have a dry. and shot pocket on the U joint.
I have had it where the 3 that got grease looked great and the 4th one the needles where gone.

when replacing the U joints, it hurts, but get the good ones or the factory ones. 20 to 35 each.
don't go for the cheap ones or you will be replacing them very soon.
I did the cheap ones with the sky jacker 5 inch lift and it only made it for 1500 or so miles and the cross bars had pitted from the needle bearings.
but I also run the dual cases, so I am kinda rough on them.

I also run a detroit in the rear, I rarley hear it, but if I stop while turning slightly and go to take off some times it locks back in with a heck of a bang, I mean like something broke. so be ready for that one also.

Could be the rear locker, I don't get any squealing on mine unless I push it hard. The inside tire will always be less weighted in a turn and will be the first to slip. Might also be the caster or camber is off a little.

well it is the black hills so alot of sharp turns on pavement that is worn very smooth.

Might also try playing with front tire pressure. Maybe try something higher, up near the tire maximum, and see if that helps or not.

Thanks for all of the info. Looks like I have some work to do. This is a great site for info. I like to read the threads just in case some of the things mentioned might happen to me. Thanks again for all the help!

Yes, absolutely set all of your tires to somewhere around 30-35 PSI and go drive it. Just make sure they're all equal.

Also, as someone who deals with tire pull & alignment complaints several times a week at a dealeship, let me say this. It applies to all vehicles, including that car you just bought and your truck:
If a vehicle pulls hard to one side (enough that the wheel is noticeably off-level to compensate) it's probably your tires. Not the alignment. 9 times out of 10 when you complete the alignment, the vehicle still pulls. Rotate the tires in an X pattern, and its gone.

Set your PSI, and rotate the tires to diagonally opposite corners and try again. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />