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hi-steer clearance- notching frame
#745440
08/17/06 03:09 AM
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 669
OP
Rock Warrior
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well, with my lowered lift height and search for more uptravel, my draglink is hitting my frame at full compression (pass side only).
i could buy steering arms that tuck the links closer to the leaf spring (i have about 2" to spare) but that costs money, and i alreday have these.
if i notch the frame about .5" it will clear...... has anyone done this?
any other thoughts?
-matt
-'88 toy x-cab, SAS, chevys, gears, lockers, free tires, dented body mod. -'87 4runner, bone stock DD
"It's OK to do stupid things, as long as you are not stupid about it."
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Re: hi-steer clearance- notching frame
[Re: eightyeight]
#745441
08/17/06 03:17 AM
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Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 12,153
Web Wheeler
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Have heard of folks welding in a half round piece of pipe to fill in a nothed part of the frame to clear the draglink. Never seen a writeup on it. You could also raise the bumpstop on that one side to limit the uptravel a bit.
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Re: hi-steer clearance- notching frame
[Re: 4Crawler]
#745442
08/17/06 03:28 AM
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 669
OP
Rock Warrior
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im trying to get away without raising the bumpstop any more. my uptravel is severely limited as it is.
i cut my bumpstop extensions down 1.5" from where they were previously. it was absolutly horrible to drive. bottomed out on everything. im really hoping that 1.5" will make a difference, and im not willing to sacrifice any more of it.
-matt
-'88 toy x-cab, SAS, chevys, gears, lockers, free tires, dented body mod. -'87 4runner, bone stock DD
"It's OK to do stupid things, as long as you are not stupid about it."
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Re: hi-steer clearance- notching frame
[Re: eightyeight]
#745443
08/17/06 04:03 AM
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Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 4,192
Toyota Moderator
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I notched my frame to accommodate my flat pitman arm. Unfortunately I have no pics and am out of town for work for a few months. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> Know that this can be done though, just measure twice and cut once. Better to make the cut small and grind away until you have a tight fit, but remember to make the notch large enough to accommodate not only up and down travel but the full range of steering motion as well.
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Re: hi-steer clearance- notching frame
[Re: DirtyHarry]
#745444
08/17/06 04:31 AM
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Joined: May 2001
Posts: 6,768
Trail Leader
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Wow, this sounds like an extremely interesting idea that could solve my similier problem.
Although I'm terribly nervous about cutting what amounts the most important part of the frame.
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Re: hi-steer clearance- notching frame
[Re: Brian894X4]
#745445
08/17/06 02:07 PM
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,986
Toyota Section Staffer
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Here's what comes to mind: notch it for some shallow C-channel welded longitudinally, maybe 3/16" wall if you want to be burly, then plate the sides as well with 3/16" plate. It will NOT fail. It will likely be much stronger than the other side in fact. If you are still nervous, take some more of the C channel and cap the top of the frame (in line with the frame), with a 45* cut in front, and box it in at the front, effectively 'raising' the frame a bit. Stitch weld if you are nervous about distortion, but I highly doubt it will be a factor.
A plasma cutter would make short work of it. I don't know how I got through projects without one (one of the new, very nice dual voltage Millers). Between that, and a HF metal bandsaw, making a nice step bumper for my son has been a piece of cake +/-. Both gifts from my lovely bride. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />
-Bill '87 4Runner w/ '96 5VZ-FE, 'Red Chili II' '97 Taco XtraCab 3RZ-FE, 'BlackBean' TLCA # 13257, Rising Sun 4x4 Club Land Use Coordinator "He who stops being better stops being good." -Oliver Cromwell
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Re: hi-steer clearance- notching frame
[Re: Red_Chili]
#745446
08/17/06 10:12 PM
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Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 3,935
Roll Me Over
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Here's what comes to mind: notch it for some shallow C-channel welded longitudinally, maybe 3/16" wall if you want to be burly, then plate the sides as well with 3/16" plate. It will NOT fail. It will likely be much stronger than the other side in fact. If you are still nervous, take some more of the C channel and cap the top of the frame (in line with the frame), with a 45* cut in front, and box it in at the front, effectively 'raising' the frame a bit. Stitch weld if you are nervous about distortion, but I highly doubt it will be a factor.
Great ideas, Bill. Also (and here's a blast from the past), Joe Chacon did this about 6 years ago on his SAS, so it's been done before.
Brian K. Gallus I have nothing important to say.
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