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hi-steer clearance- notching frame #745440 08/17/06 03:09 AM
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 669
eightyeight Offline OP
Rock Warrior
well, with my lowered lift height and search for more uptravel, my draglink is hitting my frame at full compression (pass side only).

i could buy steering arms that tuck the links closer to the leaf spring (i have about 2" to spare) but that costs money, and i alreday have these.

if i notch the frame about .5" it will clear...... has anyone done this?

any other thoughts?


-matt

-'88 toy x-cab, SAS, chevys, gears, lockers, free tires, dented body mod.
-'87 4runner, bone stock DD

"It's OK to do stupid things, as long as you are not stupid about it."

Re: hi-steer clearance- notching frame [Re: eightyeight] #745441 08/17/06 03:17 AM
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 12,153
4Crawler Offline
Web Wheeler
*****
Have heard of folks welding in a half round piece of pipe to fill in a nothed part of the frame to clear the draglink. Never seen a writeup on it. You could also raise the bumpstop on that one side to limit the uptravel a bit.

Re: hi-steer clearance- notching frame [Re: 4Crawler] #745442 08/17/06 03:28 AM
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 669
eightyeight Offline OP
Rock Warrior
im trying to get away without raising the bumpstop any more. my uptravel is severely limited as it is.

i cut my bumpstop extensions down 1.5" from where they were previously. it was absolutly horrible to drive. bottomed out on everything. im really hoping that 1.5" will make a difference, and im not willing to sacrifice any more of it.


-matt

-'88 toy x-cab, SAS, chevys, gears, lockers, free tires, dented body mod.
-'87 4runner, bone stock DD

"It's OK to do stupid things, as long as you are not stupid about it."

Re: hi-steer clearance- notching frame [Re: eightyeight] #745443 08/17/06 04:03 AM
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 4,192
DirtyHarry Offline
Toyota Moderator
I notched my frame to accommodate my flat pitman arm. Unfortunately I have no pics and am out of town for work for a few months. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> Know that this can be done though, just measure twice and cut once. Better to make the cut small and grind away until you have a tight fit, but remember to make the notch large enough to accommodate not only up and down travel but the full range of steering motion as well.

Re: hi-steer clearance- notching frame [Re: DirtyHarry] #745444 08/17/06 04:31 AM
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 6,768
Brian894X4 Offline
Trail Leader
*****
Wow, this sounds like an extremely interesting idea that could solve my similier problem.

Although I'm terribly nervous about cutting what amounts the most important part of the frame.


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Re: hi-steer clearance- notching frame [Re: Brian894X4] #745445 08/17/06 02:07 PM
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,986
Red_Chili Offline
Toyota Section Staffer
Here's what comes to mind: notch it for some shallow C-channel welded longitudinally, maybe 3/16" wall if you want to be burly, then plate the sides as well with 3/16" plate. It will NOT fail. It will likely be much stronger than the other side in fact. If you are still nervous, take some more of the C channel and cap the top of the frame (in line with the frame), with a 45* cut in front, and box it in at the front, effectively 'raising' the frame a bit. Stitch weld if you are nervous about distortion, but I highly doubt it will be a factor.

A plasma cutter would make short work of it. I don't know how I got through projects without one (one of the new, very nice dual voltage Millers). Between that, and a HF metal bandsaw, making a nice step bumper for my son has been a piece of cake +/-. Both gifts from my lovely bride. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />


-Bill
'87 4Runner w/ '96 5VZ-FE, 'Red Chili II'
'97 Taco XtraCab 3RZ-FE, 'BlackBean'
TLCA # 13257, Rising Sun 4x4 Club Land Use Coordinator
"He who stops being better stops being good." -Oliver Cromwell
Re: hi-steer clearance- notching frame [Re: Red_Chili] #745446 08/17/06 10:12 PM
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 3,935
bkg Offline
Roll Me Over
Quote
Here's what comes to mind: notch it for some shallow C-channel welded longitudinally, maybe 3/16" wall if you want to be burly, then plate the sides as well with 3/16" plate. It will NOT fail. It will likely be much stronger than the other side in fact. If you are still nervous, take some more of the C channel and cap the top of the frame (in line with the frame), with a 45* cut in front, and box it in at the front, effectively 'raising' the frame a bit. Stitch weld if you are nervous about distortion, but I highly doubt it will be a factor.



Great ideas, Bill.

Also (and here's a blast from the past), Joe Chacon did this about 6 years ago on his SAS, so it's been done before.


Brian K. Gallus
I have nothing important to say.

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