Well a week after i did my lift i got in an acident. some old people backed in to me at a stop sign. it bent every bolt on my body lift. but didn't scracth my bumper or do anything else to it. I am on a quest for those new bolts tomarrow. I also can't shift into 4 low. i have not extended my shifter but would that prevent me? there was a really good write up that i can't find. It was Zudoff's body lift write up. It would really help if someone had that every link i found its not there. Just little thinks adding up delayed me wheeling this weekend. If you could help please.

just put Zudoff in the Username search of the above Search feature. i think i came up with 5 or 6 hits (only). is it one of those?

first off update your signature so that we all know what model and make you have. that will help.

second that is some crap luck that they ran into you. I knwo how much work is involved with those. I did one myself. the shifter should be extended. at least on mine I had to extend it just to get it to work. I think that will solve some problem. as for the bolts all but the catch bolts should be easy for you to find. I could not track down those for the life of me. the metric thread is what will give you problems

Sounds like it pushed you body off center as well. If I were you I would get the money from insurance and buy another kit and then take what you need out of it. you can probably resell the pucks for about any vehicle. good luck

well i found the catch bolts at ace hardware. i cant find the other ones. the nut and bolt shops here are closed today. its a 2000 honda passport 3inch calmini lift and a pa bodylift.

i found a link to the write up but its not there and its not on cardomain either. his truck has been sold i was hoping someone still had it saved on there computer and could post it or email it too me.

I don't remember who I got this from or if it will even help. But I saved this write-up when I wanted a BL for my Rodeo. HTH

3"B/L on 2gen Rodeo(Writeup long)
#351131 - 09/15/03 06:39 PM Edit
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My first attempt at a write up.
1998 Rodeo v-6 Auto
I used a lift it was easier to position Rodeo where I needed
it.
Disconnect Battery

With Rodeo lifted up:
1)Rear bumper-Remove rear bumper,2 bolts on each frame horn
and remove mud flaps leave plastic "bolts" in place(inside wheel well).Pull bumper out of Frame.
2)Front bumper-Remove 2 bolts on each frame horn.Remove
1 bolt inside wheel well(it's obvius which one) pull
bumper up and out there are "safety" catches you need to clear.
Under Rodeo:
3)remove bolt inside frame rail that holds gas tank filler neck to frame,move along fillerneck and remove bolt that attaches neck to crossmember(from the top down).
4)remove 2 bolts that attach e-brake cables to body.
5)cut zip ties on wires that run up into cabin on drivers side about mid ways up frame.
6)replace vacumm lines (6) with longer lines.On drivers side
at firewall area they go between hard lines and junction block between frame/motor.
7)disconnect abs sensors at a-arms!!!!very important!!!
8)Remove skidplate
9)Lengthen Trannycooler lines about 6-8" longer not just 3"
need lenght to clear Fan!!(you will need to bend hard lines at Radiator down a very little to clear fan.(don't break lines)
10)Pull wireloom out of clips under radiator.

From on top at engine compartment.

11)reroute vacumm line from on top of brake booster to below
brake booster-line goes between engine and drivers corner
of firewall.
12)disconnect powersteering line from pump to reseivor,
and reroute "behind" the wire loom between cylinder head
and fender.
13)remove 2 bolts that bolt powersteering pump resivor
down let hang loose it will be bolted backup after lift.
14)remove plastic air intake tube between throttlebody
and air cleaner.
15)remove bolt/clamp that holds lower radiator hose to engine-replace after lift.
16)unplug wireharness's on passenger fender well between
engine/fender.
17)Pull wireloom out of clips under battery plate
18)pull all hard lines out of the clips that run from "aluminum" block(abs) down fenderwell and loop
backup to junction blocks.
19)Remove bolt that holds large a/c hard line to firewall.
20)Remove Radiator shroud, you will reuse top part.

From inner fender on drivers side remove steering shaft-2 bolts at top/bottom.Will have to modify to work use your best judgement.Some
say it will fit w/a couple washers/spcers mine didn't.

Inside vehicle

Remove T/C lever and modify per instructions

21) remove platic trim in back to access very small
holes on back corners where bolts go for back mount.You cannot
access them without making holes bigger---so use a 2 wrenches
from underneath and hold bolt with 1 and turn nut with 2 wrench.
loosen passengerside about 1/4 " and remove drivers side thru
little hole.
22)remove next bodybolt from under truck it is a bolt head it
screws into a "captured" nut in body,Leave passenger side loose.
23)open back door and pull up plastic/carpet and remove rubber plug in floor (above mount) same as before loosen passengerside and remove
driversside.
24)open front doors and pull up plastic/carpet to exspose rubber plug
remove and remove drivers side bolt and loosen passengerside.
25)move to front and loosen last bodymountbolt on drivers side(remove
nut)passengerside leave loose.Bolt will come out after body is up.

You removed drivers side bolts/nuts and passengerside are still in to
keep body from shifting.

26)Place wood etc. under floor pan becareful and distribute weight
correctly and lift body up and place large diameter block in the very
back and smaller blocks on the rest of the mounts.slip bolts thru
blocks and put nuts on do not tighten all the way yet.Work
from back to front.
27)I put front bolt(at radiator)up thru the bottom..I used Nylock nuts
thruout to keep from loosing the nuts/and keep bolts tight.

Repeat on passengerside becareful and straighten Brake lines aliitle if needed see step 18 they need alittle help but they will work.
Use a tape measure and line body up from side to side.wiggle blocks and make sure they are setted good...Tighten bolts/nuts.

Work backwards and secure/tighten everything you loosened and use
zip ties if needed to secure wire looms.

Notes:
1)You will have to undo the wire bundles to get enough slack
to hook abs sensors back up.
2)A/c line will not boltback up to firewall w/o a spacer/bracket.
3)The 12mm bolt that holds gas filler neck will bolt back up
to the crossmember w/o any mods,The bracket on the frame will
need to be lenghtened if reused.
4)E-brake cables will not bolt back up w/o a spacer being made.
5)Heater lines -no mods double check as lifting Passenger side.
6)Steering-modify to work good luck use your Brain!!!!!!!

Bumpers---I just kinda getto-ed it I will be modifing mine later.
But to get it out of the shop and on the road w/o getting a ticket
I did this.

1)Front Bumper-Place bumper back onto "plastic lead in spacers"
on both sides and flatten bracket (3/4" tab) against frame line up
bumper and weld along inside of frame.
2)Back bumper-I cut off about 1 1/2" of the bumper frame that slides
inside of the vehicle frame so when bumper lines up and on "plastic
lead in spacers" on the sides the bumper frame sit's on top of vehicle frame 3" higher.
Lined it up even and ran a bead of weld to connect the 2 "frames"
together.
I hope this helps someone in the future any ???? ask.
Doug

149 posts.... whats up with the attitude.... we're all here to help..... I thought <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/zombie.gif" alt="" />

I don't know why I haven't actually measured my body mount bolts since I've replaced or removed all of them on a few occasions.
The bolts that come with the Performance Accessories body lift kit are grade 5 if I remember correctly. Whatever grade they were they were too weak. I stripped the threads or broke the bolts on almost all of mine.
If you still have the stock bolts measure them and add 3" or whatever Body Lift height you have.

Go to your local fastener shop.
Get grade 8 bolts. Get twice the number of nuts so that once you have your first nut nice and tight you can use the next nut as a jam nut. Use lock-tite as well. Over-kill is better than under-kill, and these are very cheap security measures to make sure that the bolts don't loosen up.

Mine loosened without me realizing it. through daily use/abuse and off-road trips 3 of my body mounts broke. Its not all that much fun rebuilding them. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />

You're probably not able to shift into 4-low because your shift lever hits the body. Same thing happened to me. You can be sure by taking up the shift boot to check the clearance or lack thereof.

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />
--jeremy

i found the other bolts but they want 15 bucks each for the bolts.

Food for thought, if the shift lever doesn't appear to be the root cause of the transfer case issue you may want to go to a tranny shop to see if that rearend collision didn't push your drivetrain forward to the point that your output shaft has moved inward into the T-case. That is exactly what occurrecd with my Ranger when I had it which also happened to have a BL.