Or can be the transmission speed sensor?

Now that makes sense to me too.. The TPS is the same as a "detent device" It tells the tranny how much pedal the engine has.. Hell yes man getcha another TPS and go for it..
Of course there is still the water problem. Have you took the connections apart and dried them out real good? Or have you just LOOKED at them and judged the Ok?

Throttle detent device = TPS...yeah I like that.
Big JIm <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />

There is also a TV (Throttle valve) cable that manually affects when the transmission shifts. It needs to be adjusted correctly for the transmission to shift Up and down when it's supposed to. Getting it wet will not affect it however.

The thing with the TPS is, when the electronics are disabled it can have no effect on shifting. That's why I suggested the test of pulling the fuse. Now if the transmission module was NOT disconnected, then Yes, it could be a bad TPS. As I said before, a Bad TPS should cause other engine problems, like stalling, erratic idle or such.



Once again the first thing that should have been done and none of us mentioned, is to check for trouble codes.
The best way to do it is with a scan tool. You can do it with out one.
Here's how.
Turn the ignition switch ON, OFF, ON, OFF, ON in quick succession then watch the Check Engine light. The two digit Codes are displayed by the light blinking. For instsnce, the code 12 would be displayed as one flash followed by pause followed by two flashes. That means battery has been disconnected within last 50 starts. The codes are separated by a two or three second pause then the next code will be displayed. There is a code for TPS malfunction but I don't remember what it is right now. At the very least you should see code 55. It means End of sequence and will be the last code displayed. If it's the only code shown, it means no trouble codes are set. Unfortunately it Doesn't mean there's nothing wrong. If you successfully pull codes let us know and someone will be glad to tell you what they stand for.

If you want to do you your own repairs, you should start by buying a Manual. Most parts stores have them, Haynes and Chiltons manuals are common. They will tell you how to pull codes and what they mean. They should also have step by step instruction for transmission oil change, TV cable adjustment, Lots of other usefull information. They Don't cost a lot and can answer many questions you may have so you don't have to wait for a reply here. The Information you get from the manual should be considered more reliable that what you get online, though we want to help and do the best we can. A factory Service MAnual is the best source of repair information containing much more complete info on transmissions and other systems but a lot of the info is of no use to the home mechanic unless he/she is planning a complete overhaul. They are much more expensive (around $100US) but can eaisily pay for themselves by saving a trip to the shop.

Pete if that tranny DOES in fact have a detent cable... THERE is the problem! The thing is telling the tranny the pedal is depressed to the limit! This is keeping the shifting to the highest possible speed..
I would have a real good look at that cable..
Big JIm <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />

I pulled out again the tranny fuse(marked TRANS FUSE 7.5) and give gas. At the same speed(60kmph) is changing in next gear.(that's mean is stil electrical controled..?)
Where is Detent Cable?
I can' perform the code test because the Check Engine light it's not working.

How have I check the fluid level with the engine idling or with the engine turned off, after in hot?

Fluid level is checked hot and while the engine is running but i doudt that is your problem i still say it is your TPS sensor mine went bad at 160K and you have more than I do. Its most likely just from old age. its a mecanical/electrical part and the dont last forever. If you want to PM me. I have fixed, replaced, or taken apart just about everything in my jeep. dont worry about fuses, if they are still good then you are fine. if you really want to check it put a volt meter onto the sensor to see if the voltages are good. voltage in should be about 4.8 and it should read the same when at full throttle.

Check the transmission fluid level with the engine idling lever in P or N.

I've been assuming your 90 AW-4 is basically the same as my 93. I could be wrong.
Just pulling the fuse may not be disconnecting the TCM on your 90 like it does on my 93. But, if the transmission still shifts without moving the selector, I think it is still being electrically controlled. You may need to unplug the TCM to completely disable it. It is under the dash but I can't tell you exactly where very easily. I wish my digital camera worked so I could show you pictures of mine for comparison.

There are a couple of connectors on the Throttle body. One is for the throttle position and one is for the IAC (Idle Air Control)motor. As you stand on the drivers side of the engine compartment. The throttle body is where the big black hose from the air cleaner attaches to the engine. The TPS is on the firewall side of the throttle body and the connector is at the throttle body. Unplug the wires and check for damp or dirt. The IAC is on the passenger side of the throttle body and it's connector is also right there. It has no effect on the transmission and if your Jeep idles good, it is ok.

The TV cable is connected to the throttle body Throttle lever and id adjusted there. If its like mine, the proper way to adjust it is to depress the button on top of just before where the wire cable becomes visable, and shove the plastic end where the cable comes out, IN, away from where it attaches to the throttle body. Then release the button. Get in the Jeep and press the throttle pedal to the floor. The adjuster will ratchet out and the cable will set itself in the proper position. It's a very easy procedure and the position of the cable is important. But, It's unlikely the problem unless you accidently knocked it out of position while washing the engine.

If you can figure out how, adjust the TV cable, And check the connector on the TPS. Without a check engine light or a scanner you're getting close to the point where you either guess at parts to replace or take it to a shop to be diagnosed.

THX guys for your help.
I found a "nice" article:

"Jeep Cherokee Transmission And TPS

Q. Dear Vince, I have a 1992 Jeep Cherokee with the 4 liter engine and the 2WD AW4 transmission. I bought it used. After driving it for a couple months, the transmission began to shift only after getting the engine up to 4,500 RPM. I could get it from first to second, and from second to third, but getting it to fourth was impossible.
Jeep Cherokee Transmission And TPS

I took it to a local transmission shop and they checked it out. They called to say they needed to open it up. They arranged for us to get a rental car, which they would reimburse after the car was done. They called two days later and wanted $1,900.00 to rebuild the transmission. The mechanic said he checked for recalls and service bulletins and found none.

I decided not to have it repaired, and brought it home, after paying $400.00 plus $300.00 in car rentals. I parked the Jeep in the driveway. After a while, I got curious and started doing research on the web.

I discovered a service bulletin on my Jeep on "Alldata.com", which indicated "A/T - Throttle Position Sensor". I don't subscribe to the site, so I could only see this header. I then did a search on Throttle Position Sensor and found a number of sites that described numerous transmission problems attributed to this sensor.

I took the Jeep to a Chrysler dealer near me, and purchased the part for $69.00. I installed it myself, and the Jeep shifts beautifully, better than when I bought it. I called the shop back, because they told me they took photos of the transmission and I was anxious to see them, and to show them to another mechanic to see if they had been honest.

hen I called the shop, the guy that answered told me he had been building transmissions for 28 years, and that the Throttle Position Sensor had nothing to do with the transmission. I explained what I found, and that replacing the sensor had fixed the problem. He then said that the TPS sends "line pressure" to the transmission control module.

He told me that replacing it would make the car SEEM to be better, but that it wasn't really fixed. I then told him that the problem had not gotten worse before I brought it in, even though it had been shifting badly for over a month. He then said that driving with a bad TPS could CAUSE damage to the transmission. I believe that everything he told me was basically bunk.

From what I've read, the TPS sends VOLTAGE to the TCM, not "line pressure", and that if the transmission was damaged to the point of needing an overhaul, replacing the TPS would not make it run perfectly. Am I just dumb, or am I being handed a bill of goods. I would dearly love to get my money back for this non-repair.

Thanks,
Kyle

A. The TSB you are refering to is number ATRATB324A, dated 1/1/1996 witrh the subject "A/T - AW4 Throttle Position Sensor (TP)".

The Transmission Control Unit does, indeed, use an input, among others, from the TPS to determine shift times. So if there is a problem with the TPS, it will effect transmission shifting. In fact, it is not all that uncommon to see a TPS cause a transmission problem.

Anyhow, I think there's a valid complaint here given the circumstances. I would recommend that you take this up with their local Better Business Bureau. If the transmission works fine then I would only recommend that a routine flush be done to it and perhaps treat it to a new filter.

And I think the 28 year mechanic study up on the new transmission control systems."

Similar or same to my problem...
I take a brake, couse I have to go to work...f......night shift.
Nice day.

It sounds like the transmission shop you paid $700 to is quite a shady operation. However, I wouldn't start with the Better Business Bureau. Transmission repair shops are usually licensed by the state in which they operate. I would start by calling your state Attorney General. The AG office of several states, mine included, has an Automotive Fraud Division, and they love to get complaints like this. The AFD of our AG office (Michigan) conducts periodic stings of auto repair shops, and transmission repair shops are the ones most frequently charged with violating the law.