how it's gonna be better than ARB ? No compressor, cheeper or what ?

Its an 'automatic lunch-box' style locker like the Lok-rites. Not selectable; but cheaper, can be installed without gear set-up, and needs no external air/vacuum/eletrical source.

well, it's gonna be awful on the pavement, in the front.

Not if you are running manual hubs...just unlock them like normal, and it wont have any difference on the pavement.

-J

I'm having a Hobart locker <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/nana.gif" alt="" /> setup for the rear.

Not a locker in the front. But I'm putting a Precision Gear Power Brute LSD in with my 5.38s. Cost $287 delivered from Reider Racing

Say you weld your front 10 bolt, if you basically have a 2" lift like myself how common would half shaft breakage be? i see people saying that it becomes very common but they usually have a larger lift. I was thinking that locking the front would be a good idea for a few reasons,

1) i only use the front for offroading so it would retain its good road characteristics when not engaged, but be good offroad
2) my rear axle would be good for onroad and then i could just use the E brake as a fake locker when needed(an old offroader to me this but im not sure could someone confirm this?)

but im worried about the CV's either exploding or just breaking

Having to make 20-point turns is 'good' <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> While a max amount of lift would make the front more prone to breakage, I would still expect it to be pretty common with a welded front and less lift if you wheel in a high-traction area or, on the other end of the spectrum, one that requires a lot of wheel spin to clear obstacles (the latter would probably be even worse.) There is a reason why everytime someone has asked about this on the board, people say "don't do it".

Using the e-brake minimizes the differential action across a limited slip, it does nothing but apply the brakes for an open diff.

we'll, you're not going to get a firm answer on this, but I would say the risk is still significant, regardless of the amount of lift.

more than the max amount of lift or max tire, what the CVs can't handle are sudden shockloads. With a welded front end, all the "shock" is transfered directly to the CVs and none absorbed by the diff. so unless you're gentle on the throttle and crawl over everything, like Sean mentioned, sometimes a little wheelspin is inevitable, and this is what will do a welded front end in... even if stock height/tires.

IMHO, if you want to lock up and don't wanna shell out for the ARB, lock the rear and adjust your driving style to accomodiate on the pavement, its really not that bad.

-Rob

I wouldn't lock the front with a welder. I would say that if your just starting out a rear locker will suit you just fine. You will be amazed at what a rear locker/open front will allow you to do.

They way I see it a rear ARB is one option.

The other is to pickup a junkyard rear D44, add your favorite locker and swap out your 12 bolt. If your truck doesn't use rear coils, that could get to be expensive
though.

For a trail only vehicle you could also weld the rear. I would avoid it for a daily driver though.

Bt the way I happen to like my auto locker...even on the street.

Mike W