I've searched and have not found anything on the actual procedure of doing this. Is there much more to it than separate lower ball joint, detension and remove torsion bar, unbolt shock, unbolt LCA, press out old bushings, press in new bushings, reinstall? I know this is really general but its just off the top of my head. My front end is really starting to squeek and its getting really annoying, not to mention the clunking from the bushings falling apart.
I've replaced a lower ball joint, torsion bars and UCA bushings already so I sort of know what I'm getting into, but just want confirmation on how bad of a job this will actually be.
And is there a "special tool" to go along with this?

Yes there is a special tool.

Can it be done without it, yes.

How bad of a job is it? I'd not do it again, I'd take mine to a shop and let them do it.

First of all my rear most bolt was frozen to the inner sleve of the LCA bushing. So I had no way of eve getting the LCA off. I ended up cutting the LCA off and getting one from a j-yard.

I used a porta power to press the bolt out and the rest of the rubber had to be burned out with a torch. Then I had to mutilate the rest of the bushing to get the rubber out, I then had to cut the outer sleeve in two places with my sawzall and then beat the pieces out with a punch and a hammer.

I then cleaned the bushing sleeve out with a sandpaper flapper wheel. I test fit the bushing. No dice.

I put the bushing in the freezer. I heated the sleeve up with a torch. No dice.

Then I took the sandpaper flapper wheel and went to town on the bushing sleeve and made it shine. I'm sure I took a few thousandths off the ID. I got it to start this time and had to put everything on it I could with the Porta power and it would only go if I hit the outer sleeve with a mini sledge with the porta power forced against it.

It was not a fun nor easy project.

I'd take mine to a shop. And I don't say that very often.

Joe

I also recommend taking it to a shop. Not sure if the trooper is the same as the rodeo but on my rodeo the rear LCA bushing is in the frame, not the arm. I had it done at a local shop, was around $500 in labor to do both sides plus front wheel alignment (I supplied the parts). Took the guy all day to do it and he said he never wants to do another set of bushings on an isuzu again. Mine doesnt even have that much rust. If it was that bad with a lift and all the propper tools I'm glad I didnt attempt it on my own in the parking lot.

I really don't know for sure. But looking here at Stinkyfab's Stinkylinks the bushings look like they are in the arm.



I had my upper control arm bushings hired out, I knew I didn't wanna do them <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" /> I have had the lowers done yet .... they seem ok so far.

I would not attempt it without the proper tools.I had to use a welder cutting torch to get my front bushings out on the LCA , or they would not have come out , and I tried everything before the cutting torch.Also , to get the new one sin , without a press , your risking damaging them at worst , or not getting them in all the way.I borrowed a press off my mechanic , and it was easy to put them in.Of course this was during my big project , so it was just the frame in front of me , nothing else on it at the time.Without a cutting torch and press , I would never do it again <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />

From his description (talking about the torsion bars) I think he is talking about the front control arms, not the rear links. In which case the rear bushing is pressed into the frame on a rodeo.

The parts guy at my local stealership did the same thing, I asked for LCA bushings and he gave me upper rear link bushings.

OIC rear of the front arm <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/drunk.gif" alt="" />

Since this bushing is technically in the frame, how would a mechanic press it out/in?
What is the special tool that I've seen referenced?

This really doesn't look like a fun job. So I guess I'm just going to have to bite the bullet and take a risk on a new shop, cause the last one that worked on my truck will probably not give me a fair price again after they told me "if I would have known how much work it was going to be I would have quoted you more".

Jû36834 is the part number for the tool for the rear lower bushing.









There you go.

Joe

I have felt Joe and Barak's pain. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" /> Here are two photos of when I removed one of my lower control arms:





The splined bolt that connects to the torsion bar was rusted frozen within the rubber bushing metal sleeve. No amount of hammering could remove it. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/mrt.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" /> The rubber bushing would simply absorb the energy.

Luckily I was also replacing the lower control arms with repositioned lower shock mounts. That allowed me to cut the lower control arm off and use heat, a powerful air hammer/chisel and a burly friend. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/mrt.gif" alt="" />

To get the new bushing installed (Thanks Jerry Lemond!) we froze the part and used a long bolt with large washers to slowly draw it in the sleeve. What a PITA! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/butwiggle.gif" alt="" />

All I can say is, good luck!