So you are saying it does not change in flicker rate with the change in engine speed, and doesn't flicker when the engine is off. I think that rules out the alternator since I'm pretty sure it's output varies in frequency with engine speed. That leads me to think that it's somehow related to the presence or absence of basic engine vibration - engine running = constant flicker, and enigne off = no.
The main things I'd check first are the headlight switch in the cab - wiggle it, tap it, look at it close and see if it jiggles slightly with the engine running, say 2800rpms or so, all while watching the lights for any flicker that you can correlate to your switch twiching. Try all the tests but the run-jiggle test with the engine no running to make a single flicker easier to see. Then I'd find and try the same stuff on the headlight relay in it's socket. My 89 is tucked up in the front of the DS fenderwell in the engine compartment. Don't know where yours is, but bet it's close to there. Look for a relay panel with markings. I think mines about 1"w x 2"l x 1.25"h plus lectron prongs.
If your headlights go off when you turn the ign switch away from "run", try jiggling the key and tweaking the lock/switch assy slightly in an alternating key rotation movement around the run position.
The FSM has wiring diagrams, component location drawings, and test routines, and unless you get lucky with the above, is the best bet for a quick correct fix.
The ground idea may not be off base. I'd check the common ground lug nearest the column as a first guess, and the FSM with show you for sure where it is. FSM has common ground point location drawings and diagrams, too. Look for a single bolt or nut on a stud (probably a 10mm) with more than one black wire of medium gauge with ring lugs grounded there.
Oh, yeah, and after FIRST disconnecting the battery, tighten the 10mm nut holding the fat wire to the back of the alternator. This nut is connected to full battery amperage with a fat wire and only maybe a fusible link of 100amps or so 12v+ straight to the battery, and failing to disconnect same will teach you impromptu welding with a wrench and/or a fried fusible. Why do they call them fusible links and fuses when they burn in two? You don't fuse "them" (there's only one in the circuit), you destroy it's built in amperage rated fusion - you unfuse it. But if you called them unfusible links, people wouldn't buy them 'cause they'd figure they didn't work....
If you need a good general reference on light bulbs post on this board, click
here.