Anybody have the link to a Good H4 conversion?

I had it on my last Mitsu, but I think the dealer went out of business ( Daniel Stern lighting?)

I want the Hella H4 glass conversion at a decent price. Thin I paid 99$ before.

Thnks

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

I got mine off ebay for 25 bucks for both glass head lights even come with bulbs. I love them the glass is flat so it changes the look of the truck kinda gives that new bronco look.

Daniel Stern Lighting

Frank

Haha cool, my link to him didn't work anymore.

Figured he was gone..... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Frank, how do you like your lights and are they on-road legal. I know nothing of the codes he has on his sight...

Thanks...

Sorry if this is a stupid question, but what is the difference between an H4 light and the OEM ones on our vehicles?

All good round light H4 conversions rock, and Frank's are some of the nicer. Note the word "good".

They may and may not be legal in your state. Some states require sealed beams, and these are not, with the removable bulb. Unless you have a rigorous light inspection, over and above "they work and are aimed", I think you could get away with them, but you know your inspection process better than I.

I prefer anything with a German TUV acceptance, or whatever supercedes it, mineral glass lens, with the US drive on the right lens - sharp horizontal cutoff to midbeam, with about 30* flare up to the right for sign visibility. The Daniel Stern site has the good stuff. You can get like-specified crap from JCWhitney. If you know brand names, I've seen good stuff in other catalogs. Got a set of Marchal H4 conversions once for $15 from JCW.

One weak spot I've found. Over time, you get a haze of corrosion on the reflector. The better the brand, the longer it takes for this to happen. I also seal the socket rubber to the back of the glass reflector with silicone grease, AFTER I've run the lights for a good while to drive off all the moisture trapped inside with the rubber vented a hair with a small piece of wire. I got this tip from an OLD Road and Track from the early 60's, and it's worked for me for years.

Bulb Choices. Most come stock with 55/60 watt bulbs. First number is low beam, second is hibeam. Most are a very white light. You can get as high as 100/140w bulbs. There's a tradeoff. The higher the wattage, the shorter the life. They are easy to change, but you have to dry them out again. Too bright is a matter of opinion, but I'm perfectly happy with something in the 80/100w area.

Good headlight aim becomes a necessity, both from the need not to blind the oncoming and followed, but also from an aesthetic perspective. The pattern is so neat, so crisp, and so identical to the other light pattern that being off is like having the El Greco on the wall hung crooked.

How Eddy aims his lights:

You need an open area, level for 40' or so (and check it for level) with a vertical surface at one end to shine the lites onto. Measure the height (H1) to the center of the headlight from the ground, truck loaded normal plus a couple hundred in the back, and your weight in the Dseat.

Extend the centerline of the truck to the wall by sighting center of rear window (hold a steel tape across the window and align eye at 1/2 width measured) lined up with hood c/l (marked same way) and mark that spot (X) on wall. Draw a vertical line thru X from floor to at least height H. Measure center of headlight to center of headlight (D). Draw a horizontal line thru height H on the vertical line thru X of length D centered on 1/2D. The ends of this line now should be at the height of and in perfect alignment with the straight ahead aim of the headlights. The rest is a matter of courtesy and preference. Most all of us drive tall trucks and some are very tall. I like to aim my low beams (the only ones you aim) so they fall just below the headrest of the driver in the normal little sedan stopped in front of me at the light. That's about 20' away, and that's the distance I park the truck from the aiming wall. I think the minimum drop is about 1-2" below level to keep your low beams from reflecting at you in rain and fog. You don't want too much drop or you won't have any range on the high beams. You want a dead perfect side to side aim on both lights because of the longer range. The trees way out there are pretty at night, but it's better to see the road and the deer on it.

If you drive at night, this is the best $100 you'll spend on the truck.

Beware the 100 watt highs.. i use them sparingly ( like when there's someone going 35 in a 75 zone and the fast lane to boot !) but once left them on for 30 + minutes to find them melting my sockets !

I will stick with 80 watt highs me thinks <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/evil.gif" alt="" />

I'm running the Cibie' Z-beam type headlights with 65W/100W. I've been running Cibie' products on my vehicles with removable headlamps for about 20 years, and they're my favorites. I'm not using the 'city' units with the parking lamps, just the regular. My commute can sometimes include twisty-windy, or highway, and variable weather throughout the years. I've used a Bosch set, too, just to try another brand...Cibie' I thought was better and eventually changed out the Bosch. Love 'em. When used in conjunction with my fogs and driving light, most of my forward lighting needs are met. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cyclops.gif" alt="" />

You have to have enough wire weight to handle the amps. Normal sealed beams are about 50w, or 4ish amps each, so 100w lights pull twice that. Add voltage drop due to wire length and you fry stuff easy. Upgrade the wiring, add a relay, etc. See Stern's site.