So, while I was out on the trail, and I had a little trouble with the glow plug temperature sensor--I thought for a minute that I might be having a problem with my fuel cut off solenoid. Thankfully that wasn't the case, but it got me to thinking--what sort of "trail fix" is there for a fuel cut off solenoid that goes bad? Seems like that little solenoid is one of the few electrical show-stoppers. I mean, if the engine is at all warm, I could push-start it with a crummy battery as long as that solenoid wasn't stuck closed.

Oh, and anybody have a good lead on one of the plastic fans? Mine is pretty wobbly now, since the accident. Don't want to burn up my new water pump

Cheers all,

I don't know whether this helps you, but the 4JB1 diesel uses the same fan as the 4ZE1 gasoline engine (different clutch, same blade) as I've swapped them myself. Maybe the C223 fan is similar to the gas engine's fan from the same vintage Isuzu?

lamby--

The fuel cut solenoid is pretty reliable. But, if you think it has failed you could remove the solenoid and pull the spring loaded plunger out of it and then replace the solenoid. Then, of course, the engine will run and run until you figure a way to kill it. Some of the VE series pumps have a mechanical shutoff as well as the solenoid but not the one on the C223.

What was the problem with your glow system temperature sensor? I have had several of these that have developed a leakage resistance such that the glow controller would think the engine was warm when it was not and so would fail to glow.

Paul

That's kind of what I figured about the solenoid. Killing a diesel isn't too hard--cut off the air When I had it running in the junkyard before I brought it home, that's how I had to kill it--hand over the intake. Lot of suction there...

Not that I'm planning on doing this, but if one were to remove the cutoff solenoid plunger, there's no problem with fuel leakage when the engine isn't running, correct? The injectors will all be closed, and nowhere for the fuel to go, right? Just double checking.

As for the temp sensor--I haven't retested the resistance, but that's what I'm assuming happened. I know for sure that it was giving a false reading and that the glow plugs were not getting any juice as a result. Exactly *why* it was doing that, I'm not sure.

There will be virtually no fuel leakage from the solenoid hole if you remove it. The problem might be to get a wrench on it to get it out. Should be very sure that it is not working first.

The glow sensor is actually a switch and should be closed (hot engine) or open (cold engine). If there is leakage around the switch that reads less than about 30k ohms you can expect a cold engine to not glow.

I think one could also squeeze off the fuel feed hose to kill the engine.

Paul

Put the truck in 4th , step on the break and let out the clutch to stall it...
Eric