I was quoted a reasonable price for a factory tow pack, as I'm envisaging the need for a trailer in future camping trips [ Now that there's a motorbike in the family ]. Do these kits bolt up to the chassis, as in do-it-yourself, or do they have to be installed by qualified personnel? I've installed one on a different car before but as for legislative requirements, any ideas? Gary? Wiring no problem, sparky by trade, just that if welding or serious mods required I might get done in by the installation fees. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

I looked into a Hayman Reese towbar a while ago, and it was listed as "needing minor alterations to chassis" to fit them. They actually attatch to the rear tiedown loops and bolt up to the chassis. IIRC this is where the "minor modifications" come in, as they would need to fit some crush tubes to the chassis to allow bolts to go through (owing to the full box section chassis). Compared with most other vehicles we are a bit unusual in being fully boxed all the way to the end of the chassis, most end with a length of "C" section, making attatchment of a bar easier.

KIA 11/1996-on 1771 Sportage (C) $337.00 1000/80
KIA 11/1996-5/2000 R1513 Sportage (C) $490.00 1800/120
KIA 11/1996-on +1581 Sportage (C) $311.00 1000/80

i bought a curt hitch on fleebay for about 120 shipped. had to drill two holes close to the tow rings under the back bumper and that was it. 4 bolts included, slide it under, tighten the bolts and wala. wiring for trialer lights is an issue...

I purchased a Curt Industries 2.5 class hitch with the same installation as above, bought it for $100 & free shipping. It installed the same as above and the only issue is the box frame crush. I'm having spacers made that will take care of that problem. As far as wiring, just got a trailer 3 to 2 wiring converter for abot $18 from Pep Boys,and about 1 hour later hooked up the lights. I have the converter mounted on the wall of the tool box area and then run the wires out one of the plastic bottom plugs. As far as the stock one...haven't ever looked to see how the hook up to the frame works. I know one of the advantages of the 2.5 Curt is that it has a 2" receiver. I don't know if anyone does a 2.5 class (4000 lb.) in the land of Oz...
Good Luck guys.
Everet
<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Looks like I'm getting ripped off, your prices are cheaper than my "discounted" one. Can the crush tubes be inserted through the end of the chassis or are they put through a larger hole and then some big washers come into play to go under the nuts and bolts? It sounds quite a simple install so I'll definitely go down the track of D.I.Y. Thanks guys.

You would have to ask Hayman Recce (I didn't actually end up buying one.

had mine done at uhaul.(i watched) hitch wasnt a big deal, drilled two holes and moved exhaust pipe up and he was done. wiring wasnt too bad (spliced into original harness)
my suggestion is to get it done by someone else so if something goes wrong you can blame it on them .... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

I thought of getting a hitch, but then I looked under the Kia and saw this nice tube which crosses from one end of tha chasis to the other and welded the receiver to it, now I have a hitch, which by the way, proved to be very strong, for only 10 bucks, cost of the receiver. I've towed cars with it with no problem. I have tube rear bumpers, so getting to the hitch is easy.

I'm pretty good with most things but welding isn't one of them. I'm sure the government regulations concerning welding onto chassis are pretty strict so it isn't a "legal" option for me. Hmmmmmm, makes one think though. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

you might wanna put some support on that, since it isn't heavy wall tube, just in case. i'd run 2 struts from the center, where the receiver is welded, to the frame rails about where the next x-member is located above the gas tank.