I'm pickin up another toy Friday. I'm getting an 85 runner with the infamous SAS. I was wondering what will be involved with lifting it. I know that SAS is easier to lift than the IFS but, still not sure on how to go about it. I'm thinking I want about 4 to 6 inches of lift. Open for suggestions so pitch in guys!! Thanks!!

Came with a solid axle from the factory, not a solid axle swap (SAS). Some info on lifting:

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_suspension.shtml

whoops!!! thought SAS=Straight Axle Suspension

Best thing to do is read 4crawlers site that will help you out. I have his site in my #1 favorites on Toyota 4runners. I just put a ProComp 4" lift under my 85 4runner. Though a 3 day build ended up been 2 weeks but i had some massive rust on rust. That south east rust is something else.

How much did that kit run ya? Found one place that listed about $550 w/rear leaf instead of block. Yeah you're right about the SE rust thing however, the 4 runner I found is super clean underneath. Trust me I dealt w/enough rust under my old 85 pickup, learned to look closer underneath. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Got my lift kit from Down East Offroad, in wilson NC cost about $650 I liked what all came in it. (1979-1985 4WD Pickup 4" Lift includes: Front leaf springs with urethane bushings, Sway bar link extensions, Bump stop extensions, U bolt kits, REAR SPRINGS, Adjustable drag link, Stainless steel brakelines, 4 ES3000 Shocks)Some other lift kits after you add a lot of what this kit has close to $1000 or more. I would have to say i like my lift. I was a little shocked when i got the tires on and put it on the ground to how tall a 4" lift really is

Unless it's going to be an all show, no go, truck, IMO, the lift should be as minimal as possible.

My personal rules. This is just my opinion. No more than 4" total lift. No body lifts, unless you do a 1" combined with no other lift or a minimal 1-2" suspension lift. No rear blocks under any circumstances. Longer rear shackles are OK, as are add-a-leafs. 2-3" should easily clear 33s with minor or no mods. 4" should clear 35 with minor to no mods. Taller tires, might require some more serious mods.

If the tires require more clearance, I say cut fenders, move axles, relocate mudflaps, and change wheel backspacing.

If you keep the stock J arm steering, you're going to be limited on how much you can lift the front anyway. I think you can't go much higher than a couple of inches, before you need a drop arm and then probably limited to about 4" max suspension. But I'm not well versed on the stock SA steering, since mine is an SAS and I have hi-steer..which by the way, would be a great mod to consider for the future, even on a factory SA truck.

Low lifts may not look as "cool", but they perform awesome on the trail and keep your roof panels straighter and you alive.

Good luck.

I disagree with this one every time I see it...

3" BL is GREAT for fitting 33's (35's with minor trimming), yet it keeps your center of balance relatively low.

My rig has a 3" BL, no suspension, and stock IFS up front. The second picture was me going the exact same line as the TJ before me... The owner is holding my coffee while I walked right up it. He didn't think I could make it with IFS.

I too like 3" body lifts. Every lifted Toy I have had had a 3" body lift. It makes pulling the tranny soo much easier and it allowed me to do a 2" drive train lift. The type of lift springs you buy depends on how hard you plan to wheel. I had 3" Genuine something (the cheap 4wheelparts ones) thats what came on it, and they worked pretty good and it drove well on the road. I switched to Marlins 4" which gave me 6" of lift and I discovered what real flex is. With that lift and 3" body lift, axel moved forward 1.5" I was hitting the fenders hard with 35" Pit Bulls. Just trimmed them back to the body mount and havn't tried it yet. Blocks for the rear are not prefered but every Toy I have had had 3" blocks too and I never had a problem. I still have 3' blocks now with the Chevy spring swap, shocks mounted in the same position as stock but all of the mounts have been moved. I wheel most of the hard stuff at Tellico and River Rock and have had no problems and my suspension flex is awesome. The cheap springs I had before were much better to drive on the road. The Marlins and Chevy rears are too soft. It leans around corners alot but I have gotten use to it. Ithink it all depends on what you plan to do with it. Sorry so long.

Don't worry about the length I want all the opinions I can get!!!! I'm gonna be doing mostly on road driving with some minor off road. My job and golf on the weekends doesn't give me enough time to wheel too much. I just want something that looks tough and rides smooth. I don't want to take away too much from the factory ride. Right now the thing rides awesome, I want to keep it that way just make it wheelable and like I said before an overall smooth ride. Thanks for all the input guys!!!!!!!! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />