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Engine Break In Questions
#758863
10/18/06 12:28 AM
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,156
OP
Body Damage is Cool
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engine build thread So IÆm getting ready to make the first run/set up timing on my new 2.6l. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> But I have a few questions; How do you disable the fuel and ignition system? I made up a little ôtime lineö list, of what IÆm going/should do. I use references from 4 or 5 online sources including the Haynes manual. Please adjust anything that you think should be changed. - Engine break in;
Pull spark plugs, disable fuel injectors, and ignition system.
Turn over engine until oil pressure comes up. (DonÆt run synthetic oil)
Install spark plugs, enable fuel injectors, and ignition system.
Run engine 2000-2500 RPM until you reach normal temp, set timing.
Drive car 15 minutes. Load piston rings with some runs up to 4th gear then back to slow speeds, loading the engine as you slow down. At least 5 time, up to 10 times. No big loads on engine, but high rpmÆs, (so donÆt drive up any big hills).
Accelerate strongly, but not "all out", and decelerate correspondingly, using engine braking. This seats the rings nicely, which is the one of the most important aspects of the process that you have control over.
Let cool for two, or more hours until fully cooled off.
Drive car for 15 minutes.
Change oil and filter.
Let cool for two, or more hours until fully cooled off.
Drive normally
Change oil and filter at 500 miles.
Drive normally
Check torque of head bolts, and check valve lash at 1000 miles.
Change oil and filter at 2000 miles.
Steve C
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Re: Engine Break In Questions
[Re: bob large]
#758864
10/18/06 12:52 AM
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 362
Mudrunner
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Wow that is a lot of work for just a break in. The Only things I did was Run it at 2000 to 2500 for 30 min, which allowed for the Cam to break in took it on some drives with small but noticable engine load to 4th gear because thats all the further I got In the gearing and speed. I used Sythetic Blend 10 w30 ( Castrol ) and have not had any issues with it at all. After 250 or 300 miles I retorqued the Head to 80 Ft. Lbs per Aluminum Head Rebuilders instructions. Changed Oil and Filter at 500 miles and Inspected the oil thru a White cloth to make sure that no Metal was in there. You MIGHT have some if any at all, I had none. As far a fuel and plugs go I didnt do any of that Disconnecting or messing with any of that. I just set the timing and got it where It needed to be, check the fluids topped off where needed. made sure no leaks were happening. I did the break in like i was taught in Auto shop minus the Engine Dyno, and My Dad who has rebuilt so many engines he can do it blind <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />. Just Keep A VERY close eye on tempature. I was so Paranoid of ruining my new head that took me a year to save up for, that I installed a 180 degree Thermostat, just to be on the safe side. and made sure that the head was getting coolant, that is another Big thing to watch for too. If anyone else has tips they will let you know. You Will have some Gremlins to work out once you get it up and running I had quite a Few. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />
Last edited by 88SuperTrooper; 10/18/06 01:05 AM.
89'Isuzu Trooper LS 5 spd 2.6L 31" Big O X/T's 15x8 Eagle 058's K&N Filter w/ Air Box Mod 2.25" DynoMax SuperTurbo PolyUrathane/Indy4X Bushings Suspension/ FrontEnd Tech/Hunter Certified Alignment Tech.
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Re: Engine Break In Questions
[Re: bob large]
#758865
10/18/06 01:44 AM
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 416
Mudrunner
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Here are some things the engine shop that did my dads engine recommends (they race build engines).
Oil changes.. 1. after initial start up and warm up (about 20 minutes or so). 2. after inital 20-50 mile run. 3. after first 200-500 miles 4. after 1200 miles. 5. at 3k miles, then normal 3k mile changes.
Just use the cheapest dino oil you can find for the first couple changes, then good quality dino until 3k miles. Whatever you want to use after that.
They also say to get on the throttle quite a bit in the first 20-50 miles to seat the rings. Dont thrash it but give it a good run. The first run out of the garage should be for 20-50 miles, the amount of time it takes doesnt really matter.
They actually pulled his engine and opened it up to check all torque settings at 500 and 1200 miles.
--Dave
1999 Rodeo LS 3.2 4x4 5 Speed 32x11.50-15 BFG T/A KO on US Wheel 94 series 3" Lift - Rancho 9000x Rear No-Slip Locker Flowmaster 50 series SUV 2.25"
There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness." - Dave Barry
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Re: Engine Break In Questions
[Re: bob large]
#758866
10/18/06 01:48 AM
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 898
Rock Warrior
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To disconnect the ignition system, simply unplug the coil.
To stop the fuel system, pull the fuse or relay for the fuel pump.
1995 Trooper LS auto 3.2 DOHC /w SOHC intake 1989 Trooper 2.6 auto 1989 I-Mark RS DOHC 1.6 1991 Stylus XS DOHC 1.8
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Re: Engine Break In Questions
[Re: litnin]
#758867
10/18/06 03:02 AM
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,156
OP
Body Damage is Cool
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To disconnect the ignition system, simply unplug the coil.
To stop the fuel system, pull the fuse or relay for the fuel pump. Great! Thanks. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> I'll be doing the timing setup and break in tomorrow.
Steve C
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Re: Engine Break In Questions
[Re: bob large]
#758868
10/20/06 03:17 AM
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,156
OP
Body Damage is Cool
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Well I did everything on the list above.
IÆm at about 50 miles. I changed the oil earlier today. I was amazed how dirty it was with just 37 miles on it.
Steve C
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Re: Engine Break In Questions
[Re: bob large]
#758869
10/21/06 12:22 AM
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 362
Mudrunner
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Its get's dirty pretty fast, I know mine was BLACK after 500 miles. Dark Enough you couldnt see thru it. After that It was just peachy, Still, I am noticing more power about every 2 weeks. I just want's to get up and go some times it'll tach out Little too fast for my liking If I stand on it in 1st gear. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" />
89'Isuzu Trooper LS 5 spd 2.6L 31" Big O X/T's 15x8 Eagle 058's K&N Filter w/ Air Box Mod 2.25" DynoMax SuperTurbo PolyUrathane/Indy4X Bushings Suspension/ FrontEnd Tech/Hunter Certified Alignment Tech.
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Re: Engine Break In Questions
[Re: 88SuperTrooper]
#758870
10/21/06 01:31 AM
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,156
OP
Body Damage is Cool
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Ya IÆve noticed a power increase in just the last 50 miles.
I was a little concerned about the noise that was coming from the engine, so I pulled the valve cover off and had a look. I found that one valves lash was way off. So I tightened it up so spec. I also re-torqued everything. The head bolts looked good. One did turn little, but the others looked good.
Steve C
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Re: Engine Break In Questions
[Re: bob large]
#758871
10/22/06 12:05 AM
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 362
Mudrunner
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Sounds Great Bob. Hope Itll last a long time to get your moneys worth and Pain and suffering out of the way. These things can be a Bear to work on, Especially under the Intake Manifold....
89'Isuzu Trooper LS 5 spd 2.6L 31" Big O X/T's 15x8 Eagle 058's K&N Filter w/ Air Box Mod 2.25" DynoMax SuperTurbo PolyUrathane/Indy4X Bushings Suspension/ FrontEnd Tech/Hunter Certified Alignment Tech.
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