I have been told to replace my front wheel bearings.
1. Any reason to suspect I could not use parts from a 1992 Montero? - easily available at NAPA etc.
2. Any special tools needed for this job?
3. What parts should I buy - bearing, cup etc are all separate at NAPA.com
4. Is this a hard job?

Eric, I've done em on a genI, I can't imagine the gen II is much different - did remove the hub flanges to swap to manual hubs, and it looked the same in there...So:

1. When I eventually need bearings, I will buy genII 92 bearings (I can get you p/n if you need it)

2. Special tool: Yup, hub socket makes it way easier to remove the lockring, but you *can* use a screwdriver and a hammer. I have the tool if you wanna borrow it. Brass drift is good for knocking out the old race. Old race is good for installing the new race. You'll also need snapring tool to pull hub flanges... A torque wrench is recommended for tightening/loosening/tightening the lockring back up...

3. Bearing, and race. Are you doing inner and outer? If brake pads are getting down, would be a good time to change em, since you'll have to rotate the caliper up to pull the rotor, *if* you're doing inner and outer. And if you're pulling the whole assembly, might be wise to get the inner grease seal: cheapie part. Also, regrease the assembly with a high quality synth grease.

4. Hard? No. Not with the right tools. Biggest thing is clean out the old grease first, so you can see what's going on in there. Once you get it cleaned out, you'll see how it all goes together.

P

okay - the local mitsu shop says just over 1 hour shop time per wheel - that is in my price range and they should have any special tools required. Will check the brakes prior to this undertaking, for sure. For parts, the dealer is completely useless so I will buy at NAPA or similar. I should be buying (per wheel)... 1 or 2 bearings, 1 or 2 race. 1 or 2 cups, presumably 1 inner grease seal??

Ordered from Auto Value - 4 bearings, 4 races and 2 inner grease seals. Total $138. They had a cheaper brand of bearing for $102 total. The dealer wanted $264 for the stuff. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />
I will, however, get the dealer to do the work - I cannot bear another difficult project <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/baby.gif" alt="" /> and the rotors need turning anyway.
While the truck only has 65,000KM I will replace the bearings rather than repack/adjust since I don't know how long they were driven loose.
Thanks, PHIL, for the tool offer!

Eric,

make sure they use good synthetic lube in there. It is more slipperier then dino squeezings, also it takes loads better, and the temp ranges we go through up here, well you get the picture. Anyways did you price out new rotors? I remember the gen I's being cheap compared to the drum. Why turn em down when you can get new if they are cheap?

Front rotors are $65 each, rears $53 each. The quote for turning was $35-40 per pair at another shop. Pads are $46 for front and $76 for rears (only Wagner ?sp available for rear).
I have been dealing with AutoValue.
Currently my plan is to replace the rotors if there is any question about thickness; replace pads; replace bearings.

I replaced the entire front brake system on my Jeep (rotors, calipers, pads and bled the fluid) in under 2 hours for about $150. Truning rotors makes no sense anymore, just causes them to warp faster, and turning costs almost as much as a new pair.

Hey guys

I'm about to do the front brakes/bearings. Just waiting on the bearings and seals in an hr.

Just cleaning off the grease and trying to figure out how to get that damd rotor off. Will try a nice mallet...

1hr brake job turned into a parts nightmare this wknd... long wknd to boot <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif" alt="" />

Hubs off, old calipers/hw off, trying to figure out how to punch the races out. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Fun fun on a sunday <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Total cost for all the goodies $650. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />

both sides dual piston calipers, raebestos rotors/pads ($$ but damn well machined), inner/outer bearings/races/seals.

I'm going to email the co. I used to import it if they will pay or split the cost as they really should not have sent this over with a seized caliper. Driving a short distance with it pretty much toasted the bearings/seal/brakes.

Other than that, I love it.

Saw two of them in langley last few days. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Was one of them mine? :P Sorry to hear about the high costs man.. Ouch!

That cost was not retail. add on about $200 extra for average joe cost plus tax.

Luckily I get my buddy/mechanics discount.

Finally all done.

Driver's side = 3 hrs
Passenger side = under 30 mins

Ah the joys of learing something new <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />