So I just got my Sportage back from having a new fuel pump and tank put in (one of the few things I won't do myself) and had the shop leave the skid plate off because it rusted in half. Using what's left of the old plate and the old tank for dimensions, I am working on a 1/8 inch thick replacement. I'm not sure if I'll use steel or aluminum yet. Once it's done, I'll post pics on my site and if anyone wants the blueprints I can get them to you. Once this one's done I'll probably do the front one also since it's also rusted nearly through. Both will be much more "square" than the originals because angles are easier to make than radii, and they will have better liquid evacuation than original. Let me know your thoughts...

Very Very Very interesting! Do you know if you'll be doing a front skid plate (under the engine). Always wanted to do this but never made it. I think that it would be <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Very interested! Would be nice to have the blue prints in something like CAD or Solid Works so we can take it to a CNC shop and have it machined at a very low cost.

Thanks a bunch!

Logansportage <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

if i dont get mine done by time you have them ready i would be interested for sure.

im thinking of making them 3/16 steel myself.
the factory front one has a huge dent in it from a friendly encounter with a rock.
i will be doing the front pre runner skid, under engine skid and the fuel tank skids. once i get my new muffler, i might make a small skid for it. but trapped mud on the muffler may suck as well.

working on getting cad and solid works.

i do mine old school. i just plop the old part down on some new metal and trace <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

id say if your looking to make your stuff "bullet proof" use steel diamond plate. 1/4" and thicker. i use a product from vht called epoxy coat. its a spray paint with a self primering etching epoxy. it seals metal so it doesnt rust. i find using a wire wheel to scuff up the part, then some paint thinner to clean it off makes it look best. the black is what i use. silver is decent and blue is a bit bright. the red looks like crap though.

Only issue I have with using diamond plate (checker plate) for skid plates is the stuff by nature prevents slipping on its rough surface.

If you are going to use it, use it with the checker plate design up and away from the ground. Doesn't look as "cool", but is just as strong, and more functional...

yeah, i'd stay away from the diamond plate too. 3/16" thick mild steel should be plenty strong enough (our frames aren't even anywhere close to that thick). i would not go to 1/4" for anything other than suspension bracketry, engine mounts, that sorta thing, something that takes a VERY high stress load. otherwise, it's just extra weight. the 1/8" will work for most situations, but if you're sitting there, pivoting on a rock with all the weight of the vehicle, it might bend just a hair. multiple bashings could booger it up good.

So, being a metalworker, I did a bit of research, and I decided to go with 1/8 inch flat steel plate, "hammered" (literally) for added hardness/strength, finished with the paint that was mentioned in the earlier reply. I'm still refining the design a bit in cardboard, and 2 front plates are officially in the works also; a stock size and a larger one covering the diff and such. I'll keep everyone posted and try to get this out reasonably quick.

Great! Thanks!

Logansportage <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

I'm in for a new front plate if someone makes one........found that big rocks tear rusted metal.....imagine that! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />