I'm getting ready to eventually re-mount my front bumper to compensate for the 3" body lift. It got me started thinking about replacing the front lift pucks with a piece of steel tube, capped at both ends, and drilled for the hardware. It seems like if I were to weld the bottom of the steel puck to the frame, it would help eliminate some of the force on the bolt. I would probably have to shift the bushing to the top of the puck for this to work.

I know people have re-built the body mounts to effectively create a body lift without pucks, but what about this idea?

It seems like the front mounts are more prone to shifting (or at least it's more noticeable) than the other ones.

Stupid idea <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />Andre

I was thinking about the same thing. It would probably be worth while as well to at some reinforcement to the mounting tabs as well. At least for the uppers could be needed. I t would also be good if you could add a sleeve to the inside to keep the bolt secure as well. THat would most likely reduce some of the shift stress that could be associated with it.

I too am to far along with other mods to even think about going back on the body lift. A weld on option could be the best route

I agree on the sleeve idea. If not a solid piece of steel just drilled out (seeing as you need to get some use out of your drill press) <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/butwiggle.gif" alt="" />

A solid piece of steel may be a better option.

Joe

i dunno, you may eliminate some of the force/movement on the bolt, but by rigidly mounting the body, you're going to transfer more force to the body and surrounding mount points that would normally be absorbed by the pucks.

i'm thinking there was a reason why rubber/urthene was orginally used to join the body and frame, and eliminating that with a rigid steel mount isn't going to be a good idea.

-Rob

The next thing to break after the body mount bolts are the cab side body mounts. They are fuuuun to rebuild! I've done 3. both rears and the front driver side.

I think you're going to want something soft in there to cushion the blows.
My buddy had a pretty good idea to keep the pucks from shifting. If you sleeve the pucks from the bottom up maybe 75% of the way with tube who's ID matches the puck OD. The issue that made it not worth the while was welding the sleeve to the frame side body mount. There is a bushing on the frame side that prevents it that I didn't want to do away with.

Just re read your post and got out of my own little world.

how about if you replace the pucks using the bumper but keep the bushings on both ends.

You could just make a "lift" mount and use stock size urethane pucks.

I like that idea. I'm just thinking of ideas to reduce the moment on the body mount. I know Jeremy has had problems with the pucks shifting, and I've started to notice some shifting in mine.



My idea was to retain the stock rubber bushing on top of the welded in lift block. Esentially, raising the frame side of the body mount via a 3" spacer. It would still use the long bolt, and the factory rubber. I haven't taken a good look at the mounts since this idea occured to me, but I think it would work.



I don't think I would integrate the bumper mount with the body mount. Just figured while I was reworking the bumper mount, I could kill two birds. I really don't think I want my winch pulling on the body mount bolts <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />

As long as I can keep some rubber or urthene bushing in there for energy absorbtion, I don't see how it wouldn't be an improvment over the lift blocks alone.

Keep the opinions coming <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />Andre

I've been thinking of doing something similar myself, but rather than work with hard-mounted pucks, welded to the frame -- I've considered addressing the problem somewhat differently...

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[color:"blue"]The bolts arenÆt always the first thing to break.[/color]
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...Since I have at least a couple of body-side supports that are crushed-in (with the bolts intact <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> ), it seems to me that I might as well kill two birds with one stone when I rebuild them. --- I've been thinking that I could go ahead and add the three inches of lift into them while IÆm at it, eliminating the pucks entirely, and then just re-use the original rubber cushioning hardware.

It's basically the same thing as welding 3-inch metal inserts to the frame -- just coming from the other direction...

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[color:"blue"]Ya got any photos of the before, during, and after?[/color]
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Yeah, thereÆs no doubt about ità
Even it I just rebuild the supports like they were, and re-use my lift pucks -- it's gonna be æfuuuunÆ alright <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />



[ -edit- ]

Andre, just for the record -- I was busy typing when you posted this:


'Great minds'???

NAH!!! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

[ -/edit- ]


<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />
<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

It may not that be that big of an issue on a trail-mostly, two hard mounts only, vehicle.
I remember laughing at the factory "bushings" on my buddies '65 nissan patrol body mounts. It was a piece of 1/8" rubber just kinda laid there between the frame and cab.


nope. definitely don't want that.

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />