There should be no doubt I'm the slowest person to do a simple leaf spring axle swap <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/drunk.gif" alt="" /> I still have some issues to be worked on but I wanted to see it sitting on it's own weight so I threw the Tacoma tires on it today (The 'new' tires I was going to use are one of the issues). I believe it's about 7" higher than it was, or about 10" over stock (not including any increase from the tires). The passenger side frame is plated on the outside to the body mount and on the inside just back to the a/c compresssor. The driver's side is plated 3/16" inside and 1/4" outside, all the way to the body mount. I bought the steering box mount/frame plating kit from Front Range, but that just covers the front, so I made plates to mate up to theirs and continue back.
Here's some things it still needs:
Hard brake lines run down the axle housing
Bump stops
Shock mounts
Panhard bar mount
Wiring to tell the transfer case to shift to 4WD (that signal came from the front diff that's now gone)
Winch bumper with radiator skid

Anyway, here's the latest pics:

The new steering cooler is on the right side in this pic (tranny cooler is on the left)


There's one of the temporary brake hoses zip-tied to the frame. I did this one on the outside because I think the headers will melt the zip-tie <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />


Made a brace for the inner fender (over the steering box) since the weight of the battery will fatigue the fender over time


Here's the shackle angle, I think it looks pretty good considering new springs and no bumper or winch, if not, it could be moved later

That frame looks clean.
Nice progress
Whats the problem with the new wheels?

There were two wheel/tire challenges this weekend. I had one black steelie with D shaped windows and a set of no-name alloys - neither one cleared the V6 calipers. So I borrowed a set of 1.25" wheel spacers. I probably needed about 5/8" to clear either of those 3 5/8" back spaced wheels. I don't see why I should try to find a special wheel that will fit, or grind down the ribs on the calipers a bit? I leaning towards getting a set of 1" spacers.

Then I took the MT/Rs I bought used to Discount Tire to be mounted on the no-name alloys and they refused to mount them because 3 of them had damage to the bead area and would likely leak air. I'm working with the person I bought them from to come to a resolution.

The sad part is, it was probably Discount that damaged the bead... They've been rough on tires the last few years.

Mark, the BigO by my house will mount any tire, up to 40 on any rim you bring in (as long as the fit is feasible.)

Looks good bud.

That looks so clean. I guess it makes it look even better that my truck has lived in the northeast all its life. Looks real good.

Do you need to step up to 16" rims?

Lookin good Mark! Nice job. One of these days i'll get started on mine. I got the D44 axle which is all torn down so i've been prepping that. Not sure when i'll actually put my truck under the torch though.

The frame plating really makes everything look clean. I was thinking of doing the same thing. How come you went with 1/4" on the outside driver's frame rail rather than 3/16? Couldn't you have just not used the plate that came with the steering install kit or was it attached to the pump? What's the reason for the square cut out in the plating toward the rear? Was that just to get more contact w/ the frame for welding or does it serve some functional purpose?

What springs are you using and what size are they? Do you have the measurements of the height from ground to the bottom of the frame?

Will you be putting together a parts list and uploading pictures from the build or are these about all that you have?


The swap looks really good Mark, very clean. Nice work <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Thanks! Well at least you've started with the housing <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />




I've seen/heard about enough cracked frames to justify 1/4" (some guys here plate top and bottom also), but you for sure could make your own steering box mount for the inside and outside. The kit uses 3/4" holes on the inside plate for the DOM sleeves to go through the frame. The cutouts in the outer plates is to make clearance for the 'bump' in the Tacoma frame. I guess since you're plating it, those 'bumps' could be cut out completely, but it does give more contact area to the widest section.




The springs are Alcans. The fronts '85 Toyota spec, 3" lift, center pin spaced 2" forward. The rears are stock Tacoma, 5" lift, with 1.5" of length added to the tail end. I hope it will settle to 25" at the frame on 37" tires.



I rebuilt the brake calipers and ported the steering box for hydro assist too. Once I see how everything works (or doesn't work <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" />) I'll post up reviews, pics, part numbers, and sources. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />