Greetings all. Thanks for any help.

I've got a 1989 3.0l Monty and I just finished my first head removal and install. No applause necessary. I had the heads rebuilt by a highly recommended shop and they looked really nice. I finally got it all back together, it started right up (no-one more surprised than me) BUT, there is an oil leak where the passenger side camshaft emerges from under the camshaft cover. I would like to assume that the shop installed the seals correctly. Is there something about how I re-installed the rockers that could cause this? I will accept any answer that does not involve having to tear down the front of the engine again.

Welcome!

Did you put a bead of RTV on the hump/half-circle area of the head where the valve cover seals? If not, clean the seal area on the heads with acetone, put a 3/16" bead of RTV beginning 1/2" before the hump and continue to 1/2" past the hump. Do that front and rear and on both heads.

Frank

IMHO, the proper amount is 7/32nd's... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/evil.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/evil.gif" alt="" />

I actually apply the bead and turn it into a heavy smear. I've tried a simple bead, and I don't like how much gets pooched inside as a flimsily attached glob, some of which I've found imbedded in the oil pickup in the pan. I make the smear heaviest at the 90* corner of head rim/cam bearing cap.

Interesting side note. While tearing mine down today, I found that one of the rocker gaskets had turned 45* sideways in the groove so it was corner against the head for about 6". No leak. Miracle....

Passenger side or driver side? Do you see the oil inside the plastic timing sprocket cover, or between the timing cover and the head?

I used to use a 7/32" bead, but I found it caused the gaskets to turn sideways in the groove. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Use some hi-tack sealant (maybe Indian Head) on the cover flange, install the gasket to the cover and let it sit awhile before you install it on the head. Those gaskets are a little tricky in a couple of spots and have a tendency to roll if they're not just so. I also find it best to just snug down the covers initially, let the RTV set up overnight and finish tightening the next morning.... same with the oil pan.

Frank

I did stick the gasket to the cover at the corners of the hump as suggested in the Haynes manual, but it does not say anything about using RTV on the mating surface itself. I will give it a try after I locate a micrometer to get the bead size right. Could you give me the correct size in Metric? The leak is in-between the valve cover and the timing belt cover. I thought it was coming from the shaft itself, but I would be happy if it was seeping down there from the mating surface.

Sure.... it's 4.7625mm. Whatever you do, don't round it off or it'll cause you to lose all of your blinker fluid. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> I think AutoZone rents a precision bead measuring tool. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Frank

5.55625mm according to CONVERT. Rounding will of course be obliviated by the smearing technique, but not before it misaligns the Johnson Rod and the Watts Linkage.

MGS
Lustre-Cal
Northern Valve

Convert inches to mm:

3/16" (fractional) = .1875"
.1875 x 25.4 = 4.7625mm

Frank

I could have measured the RTV bead out in furlongs and it would not have helped. I sealed the valve covers as suggested, cranked that puppy up and oil is dripping off of the front of the camshaft. I believe its time to accept the fact that the shop screwed up the front camshaft seal and start tearing down the front of the engine to get at it. Thanks for the tips anyway, it was worth a shot.

There is an o-ring seal that goes between the head and the distributor adapter. Perhaps that was omitted in the installation.

Frank