Yes, that's the way I'd do it. You still have to tear down the front to take the timing belt off. BEFORE you take off the belt, break loose the bolt on the cam sprocket. This will strain the belt, so get a new one. Then just pry the old seal out of the bore with whatever tool you can get between the cam and metal of the seal. I use a big screwdriver. Put a pad against the head to pry against, and it levers out easy. Do not scratch the seal bore or the cam seal surface. I wrap the end of the screwdriver with tape to prevent scratches. Then take the new seal and grease the seal surface. I use hitemp silicone brake grease. I also pack the back side groove of the rubber part of the seal with grease, where the little spring is. May be overkill, but...

To install the seal, take a tube/pipe of proper diameter to rest on the outer part of the metal of the seal (a big deep socket also works) AND go over the cam nose. I run a smear of RTV around the outer steel rim of the seal for belt and suspenders. Then gently tap the seal into the seal bore with a hammer and the tube/pipe/socket, lip to the engine side, until the front face is level with the front of the head. Put the cam sprocket back on with a dab of LockTite on the bolt, install the OLD belt (timing is unimportant here since it's not an interference engine), and torque the sprocket bolt down to spec. Then align the motor to the marks per the fsm, and install and tension the new belt. Make sure you rotate the engine a couple of times by hand with the crank pulley bolt and check the timing alignment, put the front back together, and you're done.

BTW, BEFORE you tear the front down all the way, pull that side cam sprocket cover and look to be SURE it's the seal. I use baby powder and a baby ear syringe to dust it on with to find the oil leak track.

Do you have the fsm? The haynes is probably adequate for this job, but I've never followed it for this task.