So...with 175K miles on it, my tranny is showing it's age. Was hoping to get 200K out of it...but I do abuse it. Lately, it's been popping out of first when leaving stops signed. So, I think I'm gonna tear it down and replace the bearings, and whatever else is worn.....

.......And I figure while I'm at it, I'll maybe upgrade the T-case too. The questions I have is, what is the best T-case?

I'm not sure of all the ID letters or designations...but,I like the versatility of the transfercases that come with the 4-cylenders. Lots of people making creeper gears...and the whole Dual-Case setup is a nice option to have. But, it's gonna get bolted up to my 3.4L and I'm not sure if it will be strong enough...being made for the 4-cyl and all. Anyone know the answer to that?

The T-case I have now is one of the chain driven models. I've heard they're actually built well, but you can't change the gears.

Anyone have any suggestions?

Also....Does Toyota make a stronger 5-speed Tranny that I can bolt up to my 3.4L?.....The one in there now was the original for a 3.0L...and assuming I go with the blower one of these days, it will have to handle around 270 hp.

The standard L, G, and W series transmissions and 21 spline gear driven transfer cases used with 22Rs and 22REs won't fit your engine, so you have two basic options.

1) Rebuild your current R150F transmission. Marlin does heavy duty rebuilds and can even add a lower first gear (big $$$) to it. You can stick with the transfer case you have now, or add a gear driven transfer case (I recommend the 23 spline) with an adapter from Marlin or Inchworm.

2) Source an R151F transmission and transfer case from a 22RTE turbo truck and use it with your stock bellhousing. This is what Bill Morgan has done, and it is a slightly stronger option and has a lower first gear, but these transmissions are hard to find. It CAN be a less expensive option if you can find one ready to stab in, but it can also be more expensive if you have to buy one and then spend the money to go through it. This transmission will bolt directly to a gear driven 23 spline transfer case without an adapter, they come behind the tranny this way from the factory.

When mine goes, I'll put in an R151. Very similar to your R150, but with a lower 1st gear, as it was intended for use with the 22RTE motors.

As far as T-cases go, the gear drive ones are the way to go, for the reason you mentioned: lots of gear and dual case options. Stay with, or upgrade to, 23 spline shafts and you'll be fine. If you're seriously running 33's, you won't break the t-case. If you start running 39's, you might want to cryo the t-case output shaft. See Marlin's site for tranny and t-case options, and Bobby Long's for cryo'd shafts.

BTW, Bill (Red Chilli) is running a 3.4, R151 and dual gear-driven cases. He lives close to me, and I've not heard it blow... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Mark

The popping out of gear is probably nothing more than worn shifter seat. Very common problem with high mileage and a very easy fix.

http://www.brian894x4.com/Shifter.html

If your not hearing bearing whine or other unusual noises, your tranny is probably fine once you replace the shifter seat. So you'll probably still get to 200K.

Replace the gear oil while your at it.

I'll be the lone voice of dissension... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Keep the R150 and skip the 151. While the 151 is one of my personal favorite trannies, the expense, rarity and the modifications needed (shifter console) aren't really worth it to me anymore.

Do a quality rebuilt on the 150, if it's really more than the shifter seats (which I agree w/ Brian on, btw), with quality components, then throw an Inchworm or Marlin adapter and 4-cyl 23 spline 4.7 tcase behind it (just make sure you seal the splines in the tcase adapter coupler)... You'll be very happy and get another 175-200K miles out of it easy.

Nicht geblowen die tranny. Don't expect to anywho. CO, one thing to keep in mind, there are practically no internal differences between your R150 and your proposed R151. So your upgrade would be... expensive, that's about it.

My article on overhauling the R151 is the very same process (and very same rebuild kit FWIW) for the R150. The reasons I went with the R151 are as follows:
1) would bolt up to the 22RE I had, as well as the tcase. In case I never went with the 3.4, it was worthwhile by itself, since my W56 was getting crunchy.
2) lower first gear. Not really needed with the 3.4, a nice-to-have, but not needed.
3) It was fun to do... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/zombie.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" />

Replace the shifter seat, Brian beat me to the punch. If that doesn't do it, throw some Redline MT90 in there. IF that still doesn't do it, tear down the tranny with your service manual and my article. I have a couple home-made tools that will make it easier, that you may borrow. Email me if needed.

If you want a geared tcase, use Marlin's V6 adapter kit. Try to find a 23 spline tcase (good luck), convert the tcase you do find ($$$), or buy a rebuild from Marlin. You will have to lengthen the front driveshaft and shorten the rear, I recommend Englewood Driveshaft locally.

Stay away from that Mark fella, he has very expensive tastes... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

FWIW mine pops out of gear at stops too sometimes and I'm pretty sure its just the shifter seats. Its a pretty common wear item and a cheep/easy fix.

Getting an R151F would save you from having to buy a $350 adapter and would likely be hooked to a 23 spline t-case, so there is the potential for cost savings depending on your goals and the need to rebuild the tranny. Also note that aftermarket (4.0, 4.7, 5.0) gears are the same price for 21 or 23 spline, so you could source a 21 spline case and add 23 spline gears to it to save money.

I agree that the lower first gear is unnecessary for Bill's application, but I think that it has more to do with the dual cases. The 3.4 isn't exactly a stump pulling engine.

Can I assume that a worn shifter seat may also make it difficult to engage into gears as well as pop out? Recently mine has gotten to the point where it takes some finesse to get it to engage into gear, although it doesn't pop out on its own.

Clutch maybe?