As said before you need to seperate it from the knuckle first. Its much easier that way. You will also need to have the upper ball joint disconnected too in order to allow the steering knucke to move around enough to get the cv axle out of the kuckle. I did both of mine at the same time so not sure. But if I remember right that was the only way to get the kuckle to tilt out far enough to get the cv axle out where the bolts can slide out. It takes some trial and error to get it in the right position.

To get mine to seperate I had to use a torch to heat up the knuckle where the ball joint goes through, then use a GOOD pickle fork and a 3 lb sledge hammer to get it to pop loose. I destroyed a cheap pickle fork from checkers and ended up buying another one from sears that was much stronger. No amount of pullers or hammering would get mine to seperate without heating with a torch first. Once heated it came apart fairly easy.

Its kind of a stupid design. With just the lower ball joint loose, the knuckle cant drop far enough to come off of the ball joint because the cv axle hits the LCA and bolts first. You have to be able to tilt and swivel things enough to sneak the bolts past the cv axle.


--Dave

1999 Rodeo LS 3.2 4x4 5 Speed
32x11.50-15 BFG T/A KO on US Wheel 94 series
3" Lift - Rancho 9000x
Rear No-Slip Locker
Flowmaster 50 series SUV 2.25"

There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness." - Dave Barry