Hey everybody it's been a while since I've posted. I've been working on my 77 Ford. But the other day I had flat on my 99 rodeo and while taking the tire off 3 <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/zombie.gif" alt="" /> of the 6 studs broke off. So I got my new studs and I'm gonna replace them this weekend. Does anyone have any tips or things I should look out for while doing this. I have to say I've never done this before. From reading its just take the drum off, hammer out the broke studs, put the new ones in and use a stack of washers and a flat nut to pull it into place. My main concern is the taking the drum off and putting it back on. I have messed with disk brakes alot but never rear drums. Anyway if anyone has any tips let me know. Thanks.

Do you have drums? It must be 2wd.

Either way, you really should have the studs pressed back in. It ensures they go in correctly, and you can be sure they are well seated. The washer/nut trick may work, but I would be wary that the stud would stretch or strip with the required amount of force to do such a thing. It is going to take way more torque to seat that stud than it ever sees when it is properly torqued to the wheel.

So, in general. Pull brakes. Pull axle. Take it to a shop.

Good Luck,
Michael

Any time we have a Stud that gets screwed up at our shop, we just pull apart what needs to be pulled off to get to them and just Hammer them out, Match up the new stud with the old one and GET A CASTLE NUT, they make life easier if you want to do it the fast way and it does work. Now just Anti Sieze the Stud and the end that is going to be pulled into the axle and just pull it through till it seats and your done. Thats all we do. and MClark does have a really good point, but can be somewhat time consuming and getting shop that can or will do it maybe hard to find. Just My 2 Cents.

ill agree with the last guy in my old shop when a car came in with a broken stud and the customer wanted it fixed we just removed the drum used a center punch and a good hammer knocked the old one out put some grease in the teeth on the hub slid the new one in lined up the teeth got a flat nut and some washers and used an impact gun on low and pulled them threw never had any problems just that the nut i used would get a lil banged up but i had tons at my disposal. if you dont have an impact gun use a long torque wrence or something of that nature lock the other wheel and put the car in gear(if its stick) that way the hub does not spin on you as you torque it down if its an auto that dont worry. as far as drums go when putting the drum on you want to adjust the shoes as far out as they can go but if you go too much the drum will not go back on so you'll have to back off a lil make it so that they are out far but the drum still fits that way your parking brake is tight and you'll have a high brake pedal(if you do both sides) your parking brake should only click 4x before it gets hard. i hope that helps any other questions let me know i have tons of answers regarding that kinda stuff good luck.

Just a note:

When a shop snaps a stud, it is in their best interest to repair it using the least amount of time/energy and therefore, money. Time spent fixing their screw ups is time lost working on customer's vehicles for pay.

Pulling the stud into place with an nut and an impact wrench will get the job done, but it is no where close to the correct way to do it. Studs are not made to endure the forces required to do such a thing. But, it is often the easiest, fastest and least costly.

While it can't be proven, I would suspect it shortens the lives of the studs, severely or at the least, sets them up for future failure. Ironically, this is about the time when the shop tells the customer, "Well, you know these Isuzus, they have soft studs and we are going to have to charge you to fix it" even when they were the ones who snapped it.

Personally, I would not do it, nor would I suggest someone else do it. Having a press, or a shop us a press to put studs into an axle ($20, maybe) is the correct way to do it. Barring that, I would at the least drive them in with a hammer so you can tell when they are seated. The nut method will not fully set them, it just can't. You can tell when they are seated with a hammer.

Access to do such is probably questionable. I know on the 12-bolt, there is little access d/t the backing plate and bearing retainer, but it is possible.

Michael

Thanks for the reply's. And yeah it is a 2wd 5 speed. How hard is it to get the axle out? I have never even looked at it much less thought about doing it. Do you have to take the diff cover off to get to a C-clip or does it just bolt to the housing behind the brakes? I have a haynes manual at home but I'm work right now. I'll have a look when I get home. Thanks again.


Okay I just went to Autozone.com to look at the repair manuals they have online to see if i could get an idea about the axle. And the method they had to replace the studs is the nut and washer method. But the online rodeo manuals stop at 96 and mine is a 99.

And you ARE 100% Correct too, and these Isuzu's have a really soft stud. they dont hold up very well to over torque, but 99% of the time none of the other studs on any other vehicle do either. Even if we dont screw up a stud and they want to replace it: rear axle we usually just pull them thru. Most of the time the front we press them in. funny thing is, I just did that today haha.

i had to replace all six of my pass rear studs from when my tire and rim fell off on the freeway.