did not work long today and will put the project on hold until Monday. It is looking better with each loose end that gets worked out.

Today
- Oil dipstick and tube. Used the 3.0 dipstick and tube. Had to cut the attach bracket off of the tube and reposition and reweld it to the tube. It now bolts up to the head at the same place as the wire harness standoff bracket on fwd left of engine.

- Alternator belt. Used a 42" belt. This keeps it from being too close to the steering column. Parts clerk said this showed on his computer as the stock 3.4 size. hmmm

- Airconditioner belt. Used stock 3.4

- Power steering belt used stock 3.4

- 3.4 engine harness. I removed the round rubber firewall seal/grommet from the 3.0 engine harness and put it onto the 3.4 harness so it would fit in the hole like factory. I had to make a small cut in the narrowest place to let it slip over the large connectors. The cut is not so large that it can not be easily secured with electrical tape upon final installation.

- ECU, located and hooked up the ECU to the engine harness and to the ORS conversion harness. Then did a prliminary routing of the ORS conversion harness. This is a head ache I'm glad I avoided tackling on my own. I can recommend the ORS harness. It comes with installation instructions and is complete with OBD II connector. Everything fit into the stock location of where the 3.0 ECU had been. I did rework the body harness in the area of the ECU to make it more flexible and I removed the plastic bracket holding the two body harness plugs to allow the ORS harness to rest in that cavity behind the ECU outboard.

- Fuel return line. Used a 4 foot piece of rubber fuel line to route the fuel behind the engine just below the heater valve, etc and to the metal fuel return line on the passenger fender well.

- Radiator fan. Used the 3.4 fan and clutch. Either the 3.4 or 3.0 will fit but I noticed the 3.4 fan was a little larger diameter. I figured this may translate into more cooling airflow. I do not have a shroud so I can not say if it would be a fit problem. My shroud broke a while ago and I have never replaced it.

So far the installation is leaving the engine bay with more room than it had with the 3.0 in it. The factory tubular exhaust is neat and compact making for a very clean looking engine bay. It does not have all the junk hanging off it like the 3.0 does.

The access to the starter is amazing, you can reach right through the wheel well and easily pull it out or put it in.

Started the actual swap last Saturday. So far have spent just under 30 hours working on it including pulling the 3.0.